The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
For a considerable distance no architectural remains of importance are
met with. The line passes through a rocky and mountainous country, the
bare summits of the lofty peaks contrasting strongly with the rich
verdure and luxuriant growth of the valleys below them, in which the
subtropical vegetation of the Riviera now begins to shew itself.
After penetrating a mountain range by tunnel, the seacoast is reached,
and some lovely bays are passed before sighting the lofty peaks of the
mountains, each crowned with its fort, which surround and protect
Toulon, the great arsenal of France on the Mediterranean.
Architecturally there is little of interest in the town, but the harbour
with its narrow antique quay, lined with houses fronting the basin,
which is crowded with the peculiarly rigged trading vessels of the
district, is well worthy of a visit. It recalls in some respects the
Riva de’ Schiavoni at Venice, with its bustle and varied interest.
The railway to Hyères branches off the main line at La Pauline Station.
Just before reaching this, the ancient and picturesque town of La Garde
is passed. Its houses are clustered on the slope of a basaltic rock, the
summit of which is crowned with the ruins of an ancient castle, and a
church. The aspect of this old place forms a good introduction to the
picturesque and decayed character of the numerous ancient towns to be
met with all along the Riviera.
HYÈRES is the first reached in travelling eastwards of the great health
resorts of the Riviera. It stands on the southern slope of a hill facing
the sea, which is visible at a distance of about three miles off. The
rocky summit of the hill is crowned with the ruins of an ancient castle,
from which the steep and narrow streets of the old town radiate
downwards. The town was formerly surrounded with walls, which have now
been removed, and the space converted into a wide promenade, on which
flourish the palms, oranges, and other tropical plants for which Hyères
is famous. The modern houses and hotels are also situated on this fair
terrace, while some remains of the gateways connected with the old
ramparts are still preserved. Hyères stands high above the level of the
sea and the plain which extends between it and the foot of the hill. It
thus commands an extensive view to the south and south-west over the
peninsula of Giens, and the Mediterranean dotted with the groups of
Islands named after it, “les Iles d’Hyères.”
There is nothing remarkable in the history of Hyères. In Roman times a
fortress existed here called Castrum Aræarum.
In the thirteenth century the place was held by the Count of Fos, who
was dispossessed by Charles of Anjou. Thereafter the castle and town
passed through the usual assaults and changes, and during the sixteenth
century was in possession of the Catholics and Protestants in turn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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