The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
Returning to Fréjus, we observe that the cloisters, which are on the
north side of the small court or lobby adjoining the baptistery, were
erected at a somewhat later date than the tower, in a style strongly
recalling the Italian-Gothic of Florence and Genoa, which we here meet
with for the first time in our eastward progress (Fig. 137). The arcades
of the cloisters are plain, and rest on coupled columns, with caps
carved in the style of the Italian-Gothic of the fifteenth century, the
whole being carefully and elegantly executed in white marble; and,
though now sadly built up and mutilated, they still possess a
wonderfully picturesque and charming effect. The coupled columns were
evidently not intended to support vaulting, but to carry the unique and
effective wooden roof (Fig. 138), part of which still exists, but is so
greatly decayed that it has to be supported with rough props and wedges.
At a still later period the entrance front of the cathedral has been
altered and finished in its present ungainly form (Fig. 133). The floor
of the cathedral, owing to the slope of the ground, is several feet
below the present level outside, and has to be approached by descending
steps. Originally the entrance to the narthex was no doubt on the level
of the cathedral floor. The outside level has apparently, however, been
heightened before the present entrance doorway was built, as it
[Illustration: FIG. 138. FRÉJUS CATHEDRAL, CLOISTERS.]
conforms to the level of the “place” on the south of the church. The
late Gothic style of this doorway, in which Renaissance details are
mixed with Gothic forms, belongs to the sixteenth century. The wall
adjoining has been rebuilt and heightened at the same date, and an
attempt has been made to bring the whole façade into a symmetrically
balanced design, in accordance with one of the leading principles of the
classic style then beginning to be revived. The wooden doors are
beautifully carved with Scripture subjects mingled with Gothic details.
This building is a specimen of the imperfect and fragmentary manner in
which the Northern Gothic style was employed in Provence. We have here
also an example (and we shall meet with more frequent instances as we
proceed eastwards) of the spread of the Italian-Gothic style beyond its
ordinarily understood boundary. But as all the country between Genoa and
Toulon was for long either under the sway of Genoa or of the Grimaldi of
Monaco, it is only natural to find traces of Italian taste in the
Riviera, which indeed is in all respects far more Italian than French.
Fig. 139 shews an ancient lamp of brass work suspended in the centre of
the cathedral.
[Illustration: FIG. 139.
BRASS LAMP IN FRÉJUS CATHEDRAL
(_From a Drawing by Mr R. Burns Begg_).]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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