The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
province. It is built with the usual rough-faced ashlar work, but its
other distinctive features are now lost, the interior being occupied as
dwelling-rooms. This tower adjoins the ancient Bishop’s Palace, now the
Municipal Buildings. Near this--and, indeed, scattered everywhere
through the narrow and busy streets of Grasse--are
[Illustration: FIG. 190. STAIRCASE, GRASSE.]
to be seen many fragments of the massive architecture of its ancient
palaces. These are easily distinguished from their being built with the
same rough-faced, solid masonry as the tower; and they often still
retain a door or window of pointed form, recalling the older palaces
occasionally found in the similar crowded lanes of Genoa. There are also
some examples in Grasse of the great houses of the merchant princes of
the Renaissance period, so distinctive of the Italian cities. The
picturesque staircase of one of these is still preserved (Fig. 190).
This building stands at the east end of one of the charming open
“places,” surrounded with arcades, planted with trees, and enlivened
with fountains, in which Grasse abounds, and which form such attractive
subjects for the artist. In one of the narrow streets stands the Church
of the “Oratoire,” (Fig. 191), the strikingly Italian façade of which at
once arrests attention. It is evidently a building of the fifteenth
century, and is exactly such a design as may be found in any of the
cities of Northern Italy. The annexed sketch (Fig. 192) of one of the
caps of the main piers is suggestive, and corresponds with similar
details of the same period in Italy.
[Illustration: FIG. 191. CHURCH OF THE ORATOIRE, GRASSE.]
From Grasse several very interesting excursions may be made, and a
number of ancient buildings investigated. A very fine, although a long
day’s expedition, is the drive to St Césaire and Callian. The former is
reached by a side road, which branches off the main road to Draguignon,
about six miles west of Grasse, and after a climb of three miles further
up amongst the mountains finally arrives at St Césaire, beyond which all
progress westwards is stopped on the crest of the great cliffs which hem
in the gorge of the Siagne.
[Illustration: FIG. 192.
FROM L’ORATOIRE, GRASSE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 193. ST CÉSAIRE, ANCIENT GATEWAY.]
It is therefore necessary to return to the main road, itself
sufficiently winding and romantic, along which a further course of eight
to nine miles conducts to Montauroux and Callian. The whole journey
there and back to Grasse thus extends to about thirty-seven miles, but
can easily be accomplished in one day with a pair of the hardy ponies of
the country.
The main road from Grasse descends by numerous wide loops towards the
valley, and skirts the lofty mountains on the right, where several
picturesque looking villages are seen clustering on the hillsides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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