The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
From Grasse another excursion of surpassing interest, not only on
account of the magnificent natural scenery passed through, but also from
the variety of the architectural remains, may be made to the eastward
leading by Le Bar and Vence to Cagnes, where the Paris, Lyons, and
Mediterranean Railway is reached. The whole distance is about
twenty-five miles. The first place of note arrived at after leaving
Grasse is LE BAR, about six miles to the eastward. It stands on a
platform at a considerable height and enjoys a fine view to the
southwards. The church, not remarkable otherwise, has a Roman
inscription built into the tower, and a fine Italian Gothic doorway
(Fig. 200) in the south side. This doorway, with its twisted nook shafts
and arch mouldings, plain caps, and enclosing notched weather table,
might have been found in almost any part of Italy. Wooden doors covered,
like this one of Le Bar, with elaborate carvings, are a feature of
common occurrence in every part of the province, and are often of much
interest and beauty. The church contains two remarkable Mediæval
paintings which were thought worthy of notice at the great Exhibition of
Paris, to which they had been sent. The town is still dominated by the
relics of a great castle of the Middle Ages, of which some towers
remain, but it is now greatly ruined and shorn of its grandeur. Some of
the old walls of the town also still survive, and give this quaint old
place, perched as it is on the steep slope of the hill, an unusual and
striking aspect.
From Le Bar the main road descends in wide curves towards the valley of
the river Loup, but long before reaching the bottom of the gorge the eye
is attracted by the unusual appearance of towers and pinnacles rising
from the summit of a lofty pyramidal mountain to the northwards (Fig.
201). These distant peaks are found on nearer approach to be the
edifices of the town of GOURDON, an eyrie built for security from the
assaults of the Corsairs on this inaccessible and naturally fortified
eminence.
[Illustration: FIG. 201. GOURDON.]
A post road, branching off the main road at Le Bar, passes, after many
windings and ascents round the rocky sides of the opposite cliffs,
within a short distance of Gourdon; but for those who intend going on to
Vence, the latter course is too great a deviation from the route. Their
only way of reaching Gourdon is by the steep and stony footpath which is
seen rising to it in innumerable zig-zags from near the bridge over the
Loup.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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