The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
One of the most delightful excursions from Cagnes is that to ST
PAUL-DU-VAR, and VENCE, two of the most interesting old towns of the
Riviera. The distance to St Paul is from three to four miles, and to
Vence two to three miles further. This may be accomplished either by
driving or on foot. A carriage may be hired near the Cagnes Railway
Station. The route in driving goes by a rather circuituous road round
the west side of the valley of the Malvan, passing within a short
distance of the castle of Villeneuve-Loubet. The most direct road is
either along the base of the hill on which Cagnes stands, or through the
town. For the pedestrian the latter is by far the most agreeable.
Starting from the terrace of the old castle (already described), a rough
footpath is followed along the ridge which separates the valley of the
Malvan from that of the Cagne, and affords a delightful prospect of
both. The rich colour of the russet leaves of the forest trees, mingled
with the dark green of the pines and the grey tint of the olives, gives
a special charm to the walk. Looking northwards the towns of La Gaude
and St Jeannet stand out prominently on their rocky heights against the
lofty and precipitous mountains immediately behind them; while in the
distance the white peaks of the Maritime Alps close the valley of the
Var. To the south there is a splendid view of Cagnes with the
Mediterranean on the horizon. After half an hour’s walk the footpath
joins the main road
[Illustration: FIG. 220. ST PAUL-DU-VAR (_from the E._)]
opposite St Paul, and near the point where the mule path branches off to
descend to the Malvan, before again ascending by a rough and steep track
to the town. From the main road a fine view is obtained of St Paul (Fig.
220), surrounded with its massive walls, and standing on a detached
promontory, with steep terraced slopes descending to the river. Other
pleasing and varied prospects of the town and valley occur at intervals
amongst the ancient olives in following the above footpath (Fig. 221).
About half way up the path on the side next the town an outwork on a
detached peak is passed, then a ruined fortification bars the road, and
finally the ancient gateway and barbican, and the cemetery just outside
the walls, are reached, and the main street of the town, which is but a
narrow lane, is before us. The architectural interest of the place is at
once apparent. On every hand are evidences of genuine ancient and
[Illustration: FIG. 221. ST PAUL-DU-VAR (_from the W._)]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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