The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
A somewhat similar wooden balcony for the defence of the doorway existed
at Preston Tower in Scotland, but so far as we have observed, that of St
Paul is quite unique in the Riviera. The refinement shewn, both in the
defensive features and in the windows of this tower, indicate a somewhat
later date than those of Cannes or Antibes. The defensive works here
correspond with the hoardings so common in France in the thirteenth
century, such as those at Carcassonne and Aigues Mortes.
VENCE.--A walk of about three miles along a good road gradually ascends
from St Paul to Vence on either side of the Malvan Valley. That on the
eastern side is the nearer, if the direct old mule path is taken about a
mile from Vence, instead of the carefully engineered but winding modern
roadway. Should the visit be made in December or January, a fine
opportunity will probably present itself of witnessing the olive harvest
on the way. Large sheets are spread out into which the ripe blackberries
are showered down by shaking the branches. Men, women, and children all
unite to expedite the work, and help to gather up the fruit which may
have dropped upon the ground.
The road on the western side of the valley is more winding than the
other, in consequence of a great gorge in the rocky mountain side having
to be compassed and crossed. The descent to the point, where bridging it
is practicable, also adds to the length and steepness of the ascent to
the town. But the rugged way is interesting, the rocks being full of
natural caves, evidently the result of the waves of a previous
geological epoch. The town consists of two distinct parts--the old town
enclosed within a circular or oval enceinte (now represented by a line
of houses), and a circle of houses built outside the ancient ramparts.
The position of the latter is now occupied by a wide street or boulevard
running all round between the old and new divisions. One or two ancient
gateways (similar to that of Mougins, Fig. 182) are still preserved, but
they are small and unimportant. In the narrow streets specimens of old
shop fronts, like those of St Paul, may be detected here and there, and
in the newer part of the town some fair Renaissance designs are
observable in the houses, that of the Hôtel de Ville being the finest.
[Illustration: FIG. 235. VENCE CATHEDRAL.]
Vence is a very ancient city. It was the Ventium of Roman times, of
which period numerous inscriptions and relics are preserved and built
into the northern wall of the cathedral. In mediæval times Vence was
originally the see of a bishop, but was afterwards joined to that of
Fréjus. The town suffered the usual casualties from the attacks of the
Saracens and assaults during the wars of
[Illustration: FIG. 236. PLAN OF VENCE CATHEDRAL.]
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