The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
The incessant struggles between the powerful Nobles in the
neighbourhood, the Grimaldi of Monaco, the Lascaris of Tende, and the
Dorias of Dolce Aqua devastated the land, and brought famine and plague
in their train. In the wars which followed the death of Queen Jeanne,
the Niçois took the side of Ladislaus of Hungary, and called in the
Count of Savoy to aid them against the King of Naples. Under the
protection of Savoy, Nice soon regained her prosperity. The Counts of
that house strengthened the Castle by every means in their power, and
for this purpose the ancient Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace were removed.
In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries Nice was exposed to damage
from the armies both of the French and the Emperor, and suffered
severely--so much so that the merest fragment is all that remains of the
ancient castle
[Illustration: FIG. 244. CROSS AT CIMIÈS.]
which gallantly withstood so many sieges, and not a single ancient
building is preserved.
[Illustration: FIG. 245. CASTLE OF ST ANDRÉ, NEAR NICE.]
The environs of Nice, although full of natural beauties, are remarkably
destitute of architectural interest. The few Roman relics at Cemenelum
have already been described. Near these is an old convent, where from
the churchyard a fine view of the lofty and rugged banks of the valley
of the Paillon (which runs through Nice) may be obtained. In the Parvis
in front stands a remarkable cross (Fig. 244), bearing the image of the
crucified seraph who appeared to St Francis of Assisi. The cross bears a
quatrefoil on each of its three upper points, with the figure of a
Bishop and a Monk carved in the side quatrefoils, and that of the
emblematic Pelican on her nest feeding her young in the top quatrefoil.
The cross is supported on a twisted marble shaft, some 9 or 10 feet
high, having a composite capital, containing a shield bearing the arms
of the founder. An inscription runs along the abacus, in which 1477 is
legible. This date quite corresponds with the character of the design.
Descending by a steep mule path from the height of Cimiès to the valley
of the Paillon past some great monasteries, or similar establishments,
including that of St Pons, all surrounded with walls and studded with
cypresses, we reach the high road. Following this road for three miles
up the valley brings us in view of the Castle of St André, the sketch of
which (Fig. 245) gives some idea of the nature of the scenery. Passing
through the village of St André, and penetrating a short way further up
the gorge of the torrent of the same name, Falicon is reached, famous
for its grotto and natural bridge. The view looking back upon St André
(Fig. 246) is strikingly picturesque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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