The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth centuryFfoulkes, Charles John
History
The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth century
Ffoulkes, Charles John
Armor -- History; Armorers; Weapons -- History
The master-craftsman Jacobi Topf and his pupil William Pickering
both produced suits of great richness and beauty, but they were
always eminently practical, and their utility and convenience
were never hampered or destroyed. Where there is embossing it is
shallow, and as the relief is not sharp there is no edge which
might catch the lance-point or sword. Much of the work of Topf was
russeted and gilt, a method which produced a highly ornate and yet
never a trivial or confused effect.
The parade suit by Bartolomeo Campi, made for Charles V (Real
Armeria, Madrid, A, 125), is so obviously a fantastic costume for
masque or pageant that it can hardly be criticized as armour. It
is based upon a classical model, for the cuirass is moulded to the
torse after the manner of the armour of the late Roman Empire. As
metal-work it will rank with the finest specimens extant, but as
armour it completely fails to satisfy (see page 132 and Plate XIV).
[Illustration: _PLATE XIX_
HELM OF SIR GILES CAPEL. XVI CENT.
ARMING FOR COMBAT IN THE LISTS
FROM THE HASTINGS MS., XV CENT.]
Although not in any way decorative, the “puffed and slashed”
armour copied from the civilian dress of the sixteenth century
is an example of the armourer making use of embossing apart from
the actual requirements of the constructive side of his craft.
Radiating lines of repoussé work, simple, fine, and delicate,
had been introduced into the later forms of Gothic armour, the
pauldrons had been fluted like the cockle-shell, and these flutings
had been made of practical use in Maximilian armour, giving
increased rigidity without weight, a factor which is found in
modern corrugated iron.
The imitation of fabrics in steel is, however, unpardonable, and
has not even the richness or minute technique of the parade suits
mentioned above. It is true that the embossing gives greater
rigidity to the metal, but we can have none of the admiration for
these unnatural forms of armour that we have for those in which the
goldsmith and armourer worked together. The style of dress which
was imitated was in itself designed to create a false impression,
for the slashings were intended to convey the idea that the wearer
was a swashbuckler, fresh from the wars. We can only, therefore,
regard it as an absurdity to represent fabrics, which were supposed
to have been frayed and cut by weapons, in weapon-proof steel. That
the fashion was popular we know from the number of suits extant,
and even Conrad Seusenhofer himself did not disdain to produce
them. The vogue did not endure for more than about twenty years,
for as soon as the fashion in civilian dress changed the armour
became simpler and the imitation ceased (Plate XXI).
FOOTNOTES:
[90] _New Fœdera_, II, 203.
[91] Froissart (Johnes’ trans.), II, 124.
[92] _Life of Benvenuto Cellini_, 1910 edition, I, 112.
THE CLEANING OF ARMOUR
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