The army behind the armyPowell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
History
The army behind the army
Powell, E. Alexander (Edward Alexander)
United States. Army; World War, 1914-1918 -- United States
In spite of all that has been written by travellers and novelists
about certain American delicacies—the ham of Virginia, the chicken of
Maryland, the pies and doughnuts of New England, the pompano of New
Orleans—the fact remains that Americans, as a people, are not good cooks.
This assertion may be ridiculed by some of my readers, but, generally
speaking, it is true. Almost any Frenchman can prepare from the cheapest
materials a well-cooked and tempting meal; the ability of most Americans
in the culinary art is confined to boiling eggs. A man who spends his
days in an office can sit down to a breakfast consisting of soggy
biscuits, poorly prepared coffee, and an omelet that looks and tastes
as though it were made of chrome leather, and though it may affect his
disposition it will not seriously affect his work, for when the noon-hour
comes around he can go over to Delmonico’s or step into Childs’s, as his
tastes and pocketbook may dictate, and restore his balance of digestion
by a well-cooked meal. But the soldier had no such resource. There were
no Delmonicos or Childses at the front. He had to eat what was given
him. And as his vigor and staying powers depended on his food, it was
essential that that food should be well cooked. To tell the truth, the
Italian débâcle of 1917 was due as much to poor and insufficient food as
it was to Austrian propaganda, for nothing affects morale like an empty
stomach.
When war was declared the Regular Army and the National Guard already
had, of course, their complements of experienced cooks and bakers, though
in wholly insufficient numbers, but the huge National Army had nothing
of the sort. One of the earliest and most pressing problems of the
Quartermaster Corps, therefore, was to train sufficient numbers of men
for this work, which it did by expanding the fourteen Cooks’ and Bakers’
Schools of the regular establishment to twenty and by starting new
schools at the various National Army cantonments. Before these schools
could be successfully operated, however, it was necessary to obtain an
adequate staff of instructors, who themselves had to be trained, the
plan being to give at least one officer in each regiment or separate
battalion sufficient training to make him competent to conduct a school
for cooks and bakers in his own organization. As a result of this system
of culinary education, within a year after the first American troops set
foot in France the Quartermaster Corps had trained 1,200 instructors in
cooking, 16,000 mess sergeants, and 50,000 cooks, in addition to which
there were 40,000 others who, though they had not received sufficient
training to give them a cook’s rating, were nevertheless entirely
competent to prepare food. From the soldiers thus trained there were
organized about seven-score Bakery Companies, more than half of which saw
service overseas. Now that these hundred-odd thousand cooks and bakers
have returned to civil life, there is reason to hope that there will be
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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