The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical TapestriesMenzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
History
The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical Tapestries
Menzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
Needlework; Tapestry
And the party-coloured hose, which were worn about the same time, were
a fitting accompaniment for the crackowes. We feel some difficulty in
realising the idea that gentlemen, only some half century ago, really
dressed in the gay and showy habiliments which are now indicative only
of a footman; but it is more difficult to believe, what was
nevertheless the fact, that the most absurd costume in which the
"fool" by profession can now be decked on the stage, can hardly
compete in absurdity with the _outre_ costume of a beau or a belle of
the fourteenth century. The shoes we have referred to: the garments,
male or female, were divided in the middle down the whole length of
the person, and one half of the body was clothed in one colour, the
other half in the most opposite one that could be selected. The men's
garments fitted close to the shape; and while one leg and thigh
rejoiced in flaming yellow or sky-blue, the other blushed in deep
crimson. John of Gaunt is portrayed in a habit, one half white, the
other a dark blue; and Mr. Strutt has an engraving of a group
assembled on a memorable occasion, where one of the figures has a boot
on one leg and a shoe on the other. The Dauphiness of Auvergne, wife
to Louis the Good, Duke of Bourbon, born 1360, is painted in a garb of
which one half all the way down is blue, powdered with gold
fleurs-de-lys, and the other half to the waist is gold, with a blue
fish or dolphin (a cognizance, doubtless) on it, and from the waist to
the feet is crimson, with white "fishy" ornaments; one sleeve is blue
and gold, the other crimson and gold.
In addition to these absurd garments, the women dressed their heads so
high that they were obliged to wear a sort of curved horn on each
side, in order to support the enormous superstructure of feathers and
furbelows. And these are what are meant by the "horned head-dresses"
so often referred to in old authors. It is said that, when Isabel of
Bavaria kept her court at Vincennes, A.D. 1416, it was necessary to
make all the doors of the palace both higher and wider, to admit the
head-dresses of the queen and her ladies, which were all of this
horned kind.
This high bonnet had been worn, under various modifications, ever
since the fashion was brought from the East in the time of the
Crusades. Some were of a sugar-loaf form, three feet in height; and
some cylindrical, but still very high. The French modistes of that day
called this formidable head-gear _bonnet a la Syrienne_. But our
author says, if female vanity be violently restrained in one point, it
is sure to break out in another; and Romish anathemas having abolished
curls from shading fair brows, so much the more attention was paid to
head-gear, that the bonnets and caps increased every year most awfully
in height and size, and were made in the form of crescents, pyramids,
and horns of such tremendous dimensions, that the old chronicler
Juvenal des Ursins makes this pathetic lamentation in his History of
Charles VI.:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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