The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical TapestriesMenzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
History
The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical Tapestries
Menzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
Needlework; Tapestry
Nevertheless we are not to suppose that, because needlework was not "a
rage," it was frowned upon and despised. By no means. It is perhaps
fortunate that Elizabeth did not especially patronise it; for so
dictatorial and absolute was she, that by virtue of the "right divine"
she would have made her statesmen embroider their own robes, and her
warriors lay aside the sword for the distaff. But as, happily, it now
only held a secondary place in her esteem, we have Raleigh's poems
instead of his sampler, and Bacon's learning instead of his stitchery.
But it was not in her nature to suffer any thing in which she excelled
to lie quite dormant. She was an accomplished needlewoman; some
exquisite proofs of her skill were then glowing in all their
freshness, and her excellence in this art was sufficiently obvious to
prevent the ladies of her court from entirely forsaking it. Many
books, with patterns for needlework, were published about this time,
and in a later one Queen Elizabeth is especially celebrated in a
laudatory poem for her skill in it. That proficiency in ornamental
needlework was an absolute requisite in the accomplishments of a
country belle, may be inferred from the prominent place it holds in
Drayton's description of the well-educated daughter of a country
knight in Elizabeth's days:
"The silk well couth she twist and twine,
And make the fine march pine,
And with the needlework:
And she couth help the priest to say
His mattins on a holy day,
And sing a psalm in kirk.
"She wore a frock of frolic green,
Might well become a maiden queen,
Which seemly was to see;
A hood to that so neat and fine,
In colour like the columbine,
Ywrought full featously."
The march pine or counterpanes here alluded to, taxed in these days to
the fullest extent both the purse of the rich and the fingers of the
fair. Elizabeth had several most expensively trimmed with ermine as
well as needlework; the finest and richest embroidery was lavished on
them; and it was no unusual circumstance for the counterpane for the
"standing" or master's bed to be so lavishly adorned as to be worth a
thousand marks.
At no time was ornamental needlework more admired, or in greater
request in the every-day concerns of life, than now. Almost every
article of dress, male and female, was adorned with it. Even the
boots, which at this time had immense tops turned down and fringed,
and which were commonly made of russet cloth or leather, were worn by
some exquisites of the day of very fine cloth (of which enough was
used to make a shirt), and were embroidered in gold or silver, or in
various-coloured silks, in the figures of birds, animals, or
antiques; and the ornamental needlework alone of a pair of these boots
would cost from four to ten pounds. The making of a single shirt would
frequently cost 10_l._, so richly were they ornamented with
"needleworke of silke, and so curiously stitched with other knackes."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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