The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
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The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
These pomatums and oils, together with the French pomades and huiles
already described, constitute the foundation of the preparations of all
the best hair greases sold by perfumers. Inferior scented pomatums and
oils are prepared by perfuming lard, suet, wax, oil, &c., with various
ottos; the results, however, in many instances more expensive than the
foregoing, are actually inferior in their odor or bouquet--for grease,
however slightly perfumed by maceration or enfleurage with flowers, is
far more agreeable to the olfactory nerve than when scented by ottos.
The undermentioned greases have obtained great popularity, mainly
because their perfume is lasting and flowery.
POMADE CALLED BEAR'S GREASE.
The most popular and "original" bears' grease is made thus:--
Huile de rose, }
" fleur d'orange, }
" acacia, } of each, 1/2 lb.
" tubereuse and jasmin,}
Almond oil, 10 lbs.
Lard, 12 lbs.
Acacia pomade, 2 lbs.
Otto of bergamot, 4 oz.
" cloves, 2 oz.
Melt the solid greases and oils together by a water-bath,
then add the ottos.
Bears' grease thus prepared is just hard enough to "set" in the pots at
a summer heat. In very warm weather, or if required for exportation to
the East or West Indies, it is necessary to use in part French pomatums
instead of oils, or more lard and less almond oil.
CIRCASSIAN CREAM.
Purified lard, 1 lb.
Benzoin suet, 1 lb.
French rose pomatum, 1/2 lb.
Almond oil, colored with alkanet, 2 lbs.
Otto of rose, 1/4 oz.
BALSAM OF FLOWERS.
French rose pomatum, 12 oz.
" violet pomatum, 12 oz.
Almond oil, 2 lbs.
Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz.
CRYSTALLIZED OIL. (_First quality_).
Huile de rose, 1 lb.
" tubereuse, 1 lb.
" fleur d'orange, 1/2 lb.
Spermaceti, 8 oz.
CRYSTALLIZED OIL. (_Second quality_.)
Almond, 2-1/2 lbs.
Spermaceti, 1/2 lb.
Otto of lemon, 3 oz.
Melt the spermaceti in a vessel heated by a water-bath, then add the
oils; continue the heat until all flocks disappear; let the jars into
which it is poured be warm; cool as slowly as possible, to insure good
crystals; if cooled rapidly, the mass congeals without the appearance of
crystals. This preparation has a very nice appearance, and so far sells
well; but its continued use for anointing the hair renders the head
scurfy; indeed, the crystals of sperm may be combed out of the hair in
flakes after it has been used a week or two.
CASTOR OIL POMATUM.
Tubereuse pomatum, 1 lb.
Castor oil, 1/2 lb.
Almond oil, 1/2 lb.
Otto of bergamot, 1 oz.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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