The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The residue remaining from the evaporation of the alcohol is treated
with water, which separates a fatty and resinous substance. The watery
solution which contains the coloring matter is then precipitated by
neutral acetate of lead. The precipitate, which possesses a beautiful
green color, can be washed with plenty of water, and then decomposed
with sulphuretted hydrogen; the coloring matter passes into the watery
solution, which is carefully evaporated in a water-bath; the residue is
again dissolved in absolute alcohol; and lastly, the alcoholic solution
is mixed with ether, which precipitates the cyanine in the form of blue
flocks.
Cyanine is uncrystallizable, soluble in water and alcohol, insoluble in
ether; acids, and acid salts color it immediately red; by alkalies it
is, as known, colored green. Cyanine appears to behave as an acid, at
least it forms with lime, baryta, strontia, oxide of lead, &c., green
compounds insoluble in water.
Bodies absorbing oxygen, as sulphurous acid, phosphorous acid, and
alcohols, decolorize it; under the influence of oxygen its color is
restored.
We must here mention that Moroz has prepared a beautiful blue substance
from _Centauria cyanus_ by treatment with absolute alcohol.
_Rose-red Coloring Matter._--We have employed alcohol to extract the
substance which colors rose-red certain dahlias, roses, poeonias, &c.
For the procuration of this coloring matter the method pursued is
exactly as that for the preparation of cyanine.
By an attentive comparison of the properties of this coloring matter
with those of cyanine, we have found that the rose-red coloring matter
is the same as the blue, or at least results from a modification of the
same independent principle. It appears in the rose-red modification,
when the juice of the plant, with which it exists in contact, possesses
an acid reaction. We have always observed this acid reaction in the
juices of plants with red or rose-red coloration, while the blue juices
of plants have always exhibited an alkaline reaction.
We have exposed most of the rose-red or red-colored flowers which are
cultivated in the Paris Museum to the influence of alkalies, and have
seen that they first become blue and then green by their action.
It is often perceived that certain rose-red flowers, as those of the
_Mallow_, and in particular those of the _Hibiscus Syriacus_, acquire by
fading a blue and then a green coloration, which change, as we have
found, depends on the decomposition of an organic nitrogenous substance,
which is found very frequently in the petals. This body generates as it
decomposes ammonia, which communicates to the flowers the blue or green
color. By action of weak acids, the petals can be restored to their
rose-red color.
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