The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Shade of Munchausen! must I refute this by calling your attention to the
fact that in the south of France more than 80,000 persons are employed,
directly and indirectly, in the cultivation of flowers, and in the
extraction of their odors for the use of perfumers? that Italy
cultivates flowers for the same purpose to an extent employing land as
extensive as the whole of some English counties? that tracts of
flower-farms exist in the Balkan, in Turkey, more extensive than the
whole of Yorkshire? Our own flower-farms at Mitcham, in Surrey, need not
be mentioned in comparison, although important. These, sir, are the main
sources of perfumes. There are other sources at Thibet, Tonquin, and in
the West Indies; but enough has been said, I hope, to refute the
cow-house story. This story is founded on the fact that Benzoic acid
_can be_ obtained from the draining of stables, and that Benzoic acid
has rather a pleasant odor. Some of the largest wholesale perfumers use
five or six pounds of gum benzoin per annum, but none use the benzoic
acid. The lozenge-makers consume the most of this article when prepared
for commercial purposes; as also the fruit essences. Those of your
readers interested in what _really is used_ in perfumery, are referred
to the last six numbers of the "Annals of Pharmacy and Practical
Chemistry," article "Perfumery."
Your obedient servant,
SEPTIMUS PIESSE.
CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY.[P]
SIR,
The discussion about chemistry and perfumery, in reality amounts to
this: Mr. Septimus Piesse confines the term "perfumery" to such things
as Eau de Cologne, &c.; perfumed soaps, groceries, &c., he does not
appear to class as "perfumery." Now the artificial scents are as yet
chiefly used for the latter substances, which in common language, and, I
should say, in a perfumer's nomenclature also, would be included in
perfumery. The authority for cows' urine being used for perfumery is to
be found in a little French work called, I believe, "La Chimie de
l'Odorat" in which a full description is given of the collection of
fresh urine and its application to this purpose. I need scarcely say,
that it is the benzoic acid of the urine which is the odoriferous
principle.
Your obedient servant,
A PERFUMER.
[When benzoic acid is prepared by any of the wet processes, it is _free
from the fragrant volatile oil_ which accompanies it when prepared by
sublimation from the resin, and to which oil the acid of commerce owes
its peculiar odor. This fact completely nullifies the above
assertion.--SEPTIMUS PIESSE.]
CHEMISTRY AND PERFUMERY.[Q]
Sir,
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