The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Extract of orris, 1/2 pint.
" vitivert, 1/4 "
" santal, 1 "
" rose, 1/2 "
BOUQUET DU ROI.
Extract of jasmine, }
" violet, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
" rose }
" vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint.
" vitivert, }
" musk, } of each, 1 oz.
" ambergris, }
Otto of bergamot, 1 oz.
" cloves, 1 drachm.
BOUQUET DE LA REINE.
Esprit de rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
Extrait de violette, }
" tubereuse, 1/2 "
" fleur d'orange, 1/4 "
Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz.
RONDELETIA.
The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most
gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made. Its inventors,
Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the _name_ of this
odor from the _Rondeletia_, the _Chyn-len_ of the Chinese; or from the
R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor. We have before
observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve
produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different
sources: that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract
of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet
the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed. Again: there are
certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new
aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself. This effect is
exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when
mixed, upon the nerve of vision: such, for instance, as when yellow and
blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are
united, the compound color is known as puce or violet.
Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce
a new fragrance, _i.e._ Rondeletia! It is such combinations that
constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised,
is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma,
and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when
so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used
accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a
like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal
proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or
hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that
patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the
vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most
delicate.
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