The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
A great variety of formulae have been published for the manufacture of
pastils; nine-tenths of them contain some woods or bark, or aromatic
seeds. Now, when such substances are burned, the chemist knows that if
the ligneous fibre contained in them undergoes combustion--the slow
combustion--materials are produced which have far from a pleasant odor;
in fact, the smell of burning wood predominates over the volatilized
aromatic ingredients; it is for this reason alone that charcoal is used
in lieu of other substances. The use of charcoal in a pastil is merely
for burning, producing, during its combustion, the heat required to
quickly volatilize the perfuming material with which it is surrounded.
The product of the combustion of charcoal is inodorous, and therefore
does not in any way interfere with the fragrance of the pastil. Such is,
however, not the case with any ingredients that may be used that are not
in themselves perfectly volatile by the aid of a small increment of
heat. If combustion takes place, which is always the case with all the
aromatic woods that are introduced into pastils, we have, besides the
volatilized otto which the wood contains, all the compounds naturally
produced by the slow burning of ligneous matter, spoiling the true odor
of the other ingredients volatilized.
There are, it is true, certain kinds of fumigation adopted occasionally
where these products are the materials sought. By such fumigation, as
when brown paper is allowed to smoulder (undergo slow combustion) in a
room for the purpose of covering bad smells. By the quick combustion of
tobacco, that is, combustion with flame, there is no odor developed, but
by its slow combustion, according to the method adopted by those who
indulge in "the weed," the familiar aroma, "the cloud," is generated,
and did not exist ready formed in the tobacco. Now a well-made pastil
should not develope any odor of its own, but simply volatilize that
fragrant matter, whatever it be, used in its manufacture. We think that
the fourth formula given above carries out that object.
It does not follow that the formulae that are here given produce at all
times the odor that is most approved; it is evident that in pastils, as
with other perfumes, a great deal depends upon taste. Many persons very
much object to the aroma of benzoin, while they greatly admire the fumes
of cascarilla.
THE PERFUME LAMP.
Shortly after the discovery of the peculiar property of spongy platinum
remaining incandescent in the vapor of alcohol, the late Mr. I. Deck, of
Cambridge, made a very ingenious application of it for the purpose of
perfuming apartments. An ordinary spirit lamp is filled with Eau de
Cologne, and "trimmed" with a wick in the usual manner. Over the centre
of the wick, and standing about the eighth of an inch above it, a small
ball of spongy platinum is placed, maintained in its position by being
fixed to a thin glass rod, which is inserted into the wick.
[Illustration: Perfume Lamp.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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