The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 1 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 1 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
The whole of Spain's nobility was congregated at these festivals,
"richly attired with quantities of pearls and oriental gems," while
everybody, young and old alike, wore "diamond buttons and brooches on
cloaks and doublets," feather plumes with costly medals, gold chains
with emeralds, and other ornaments. The ladies of the aristocracy were
also "clothed in costliest style, as well as loaded with diamonds and
pearls and hair-ornaments of pearls and gold, such as the women of
Castile lay by for these solemnities."
The Spanish churches, too, continued to be veritable storehouses of
treasure. The manuscript published by Gayangos says that in 1605 the
church of La Merced at Valladolid had its altars "covered with beautiful
gold and silver vessels, of which there are a great many in the whole of
Castilla la Vieja, and particularly here at Valladolid." Bertaut de
Rouen's notice of the shrine of Montserrat in Cataluña has been inserted
previously. In 1775 Swinburne wrote of the same temple:--"In the
sacristy and passages leading to it are presses and cupboards full of
relics and ornaments of gold, silver, and precious stones; they pointed
out to us, as the most remarkable, two crowns for the Virgin and her
Son, of inestimable value, some large diamond rings, an excellent cameo
of Medusa's head, the Roman emperors in alabaster, the sword of Saint
Ignatius, and the chest that contains the ashes of a famous brother,
John Guarin, of whom they relate the same story as that given in the
_Spectator_ of a Turkish santon and the Sultan's daughter.... Immense is
the quantity of votive offerings to this miraculous statue; and as
nothing can be rejected or otherwise disposed of, the shelves are
crowded with the most whimsical _ex votos_, viz., silver legs, fingers,
breasts, earrings, watches, two-wheeled chaises, boats, carts, and
such-like trumpery."
Many pragmatics from the Crown vainly endeavoured to suppress or
mitigate the popular extravagance. Such was the royal letter of 1611,
which forbade, among the laity, the wearing of "gold jewels with
decoration or enamel in relief, or points with pearls or other stones."
Smaller jewels, of the kind known as _joyeles_ and _brincos_,[55] were
limited to a single stone, together with its pearl pendant. The
jewellery of the women was exempted from these laws, though even here
were certain limitations. Rings for the finger might, however, bear
enamel-work, or any kind of stone. Enamel was also allowed in gold
buttons and chains for the men's caps, as well as in the badges worn by
the knights of the military orders.
[55] _Brinco_ (_brincar_, to jump or spring). These jewels were so
called from their vibrating as the wearer walked. The Balearic
Islands were famous for their manufacture; and the late Marquis of
Arcicollar possessed a case of valuable examples, most of which
proceeded from this locality.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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