The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 1 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 1 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
Dazzle and show monopolized, and to a great extent monopolize still, the
preference of this race. The Spanish breast-ornaments of the seventeenth
century, preserved at South Kensington and reproduced by Riaño on pages
37 and 39 of his handbook, are strongly reminiscent of the Visigothic
ornaments. Who would imagine that a thousand years had come and gone
between the execution of the new and of the old? As late as the reign of
Charles the Second the culture of a Spanish lady of high birth was
little, if at all, superior to a savage's. "False stones enchant them,"
wrote Countess d'Aulnoy. "Although they possess many jewels of
considerable value and the finest quality, it is their whim to carry on
their person wretched bits of glass cut in the coarsest fashion, just
like those which pedlars in my country sell to country girls who have
seen nobody but the village curate, and nothing but their flocks of
sheep. Dames of the aristocracy adorn themselves with these pieces of
glass, that are worth nothing at all; yet they purchase them at high
prices. When I asked them why they like false diamonds, they told me
they prefer them to the genuine as being larger. Indeed, they sometimes
wear them of the bigness of an egg." Even where the stones were real,
the Spanish taste in setting and in wearing them was no less execrable.
The Countess says: "the ladies here possess great stores of beautiful
precious stones, and do not wear, like Frenchwomen, a single article of
jewellery, but nine or ten together, some of diamonds, others of rubies,
pearls, emeralds, and turquoises, wretchedly mounted, since they are
almost wholly covered with the gold. When I inquired the cause of this,
they told me the jewels were so made because the gold was as beautiful
as the gems. I suppose, however, the real reason is the backwardness of
the craftsmen, who can do no better work than this, excepting Verbec,
who has no lack of skill, and would turn out excellent jewels if he took
the trouble to finish them."
"In the neck of their bodices the ladies fasten pins profusely set with
precious stones. Hanging from the pin, and fastened at the lower end to
the side of their dress, is a string of pearls or diamonds. They wear no
necklace, but bracelets on their wrists and rings on their fingers, as
well as long earrings of so great a weight that I know not how they can
support them. Hanging from these earrings they display whatever finery
they may fancy. I have seen some ladies who wore good-sized watches
hanging from their ears, strings of precious stones, English keys of
dainty make, and little bells. They also wear the _agnus_, together with
little images about their neck and arms, or in their hair. They dress
their hair in various ways, and always go with it uncovered, using many
hairpins in the form of coloured flies or butterflies of diamonds,
emeralds, and rubies."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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