The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 1 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 1 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
Early in the nineteenth century Laborde wrote that "the fabrication of
articles of gold and silver might become an important object in a
country where these metals abound; but it is neglected, and the demand
is almost entirely supplied from foreign markets. What little they do in
this branch at home is usually very ill executed, and exorbitantly dear.
Madrid, however, begins to possess some good workmen; encouragement
would increase their number and facilitate the means of improvement; but
manual labour is there excessively dear. Hence the Spaniards prefer
foreign articles of this kind, which, notwithstanding the expense of
carriage, the enormous duties that they pay, and the profits of the
merchants, are still cheaper than those made at home."
Several of the inherent characteristics of the national _orfebrería_ may
yet be noticed somewhat faintly in the ornaments and jewels of the
Spanish peasants, though even these are being discarded. A century ago
Laborde described the dress of the Mauregata women, near Astorga, in the
kingdom of León. "They wear large earrings, a kind of white turban, flat
and widened like a hat, and their hair parted on the forehead. They have
a chemise closed over the chest, and a brown corset buttoned, with
large sleeves opening behind. Their petticoats and veils are also brown.
Over all they wear immense coral necklaces, which descend from the neck
to the knee; they twist them several times round the neck, pass them
over the shoulders, where a row is fastened, forming a kind of bandage
over the bosom. Then another row lower than this; in short, a third and
fourth row at some distance from each other. The last falls over the
knee, with a large cross on the right side. These necklaces or chaplets
are ornamented with a great many silver medals, stamped with the figure
of saints. They only wear these decorations when not working, or on
festivals."
I have a manuscript account in French of Spanish regional costumes at
the same period. The dress of the peasant women of Valencia is thus
described: "Elle se coiffe toujours en cheveux, de la manière appelée
_castaña_, et elle y passe une aiguille en argent que l'on nomme
_rascamoño_; quelque fois elle se pare d'un grand peigne (_peineta_) en
argent doré. Son cou este orné d'une chaine d'or ou d'argent (_cadena
del cuello_) à laquelle est suspendue une croix ou un reliquaire." This
was the Valencian peasant's dress for every day. On festivals the same
woman would adorn her ears with "pendants (_arracadas_) de pierres
fausses; mais lorsque la jardinière est riche, elles sont fines. Une
relique (_relicario_) dans un petit médaillon en argent, est suspendue à
son cou; ainsi qu'un chapelet très mince (_rosario_) en argent doré."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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