The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North AmericaStuck, Hudson
History
The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North America
Stuck, Hudson
McKinley, Mount (Alaska); Mountaineering -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount; Stuck, Hudson, 1863-1920 -- Travel -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount
The designation "Northeast," which the Parker-Browne party put upon the
ridge that affords passage from the lower glacier to the upper, is open
to question. Mr. Charles Sheldon, who spent a year around the base of
the mountain studying the fauna of the region, refers to the _outer_
wall of the Muldrow Glacier as the Northeast Ridge, that is, the wall
that rises to the North Peak. Perhaps "East Ridge of the South Peak"
would be the most exact description. But it is here proposed to
substitute Harry Karstens's name for points-of-the-compass designations,
and call the ridge, part of which the earthquake shattered, the dividing
ridge between the two arms of the Muldrow Glacier, soaring tremendously
and impressively with ice-incrusted cliffs in its lower course, the
Karstens Ridge. Regarded in its whole extent, it is one of the capital
features of the mountain. It is seen to the left in the picture opposite
page 26, where Karstens stands alone. At this point of its course it
soars to its greatest elevation, five or six thousand feet above the
glacier floor; it is seen again in the middle distance of the picture
opposite page 164.
Not until this book was in preparation and the author was digging into
the literature of the mountain did he discover the interesting
connection of Arthur Harper, father of Walter Harper, narrated in
another place, with Denali, and not until that discovery did he think of
suggesting the name Harper for any feature of the mountain, despite the
distinction that fell to the young man of setting the first foot upon
the summit. Then the upper glacier appeared to be the most appropriate
place for the name, and, after reflection, it is deemed not improper to
ask that this glacier be so known.
It has thus fallen out that each of the author's colleagues is
distinguished by some name upon the mountain except Robert Tatum. But to
Tatum belongs the honor of having raised the stars and stripes for the
first time upon the highest point in all the territory governed by the
United States; and he is well content with that distinction. Keen as the
keenest amongst us to reach the top, Tatum had none the less been
entirely willing to give it up and go down to the base camp and let
Johnny take his place (when he was unwell at the head of the glacier
owing to long confinement in the tent during bad weather), if in the
judgment of the writer that had been the wisest course for the whole
party. Fortunately the indisposition passed, and the matter is referred
to only as indicating the spirit of the man. I suppose there is no money
that could buy from him the little silk flag he treasures.
It was also while this book was preparing that the author found that he
had unwittingly renamed Mount Brooks, and the prompt withdrawal of his
suggested name for that peak left the one original desire of naming a
feature of the mountain or the range ungratified, and his obligation
toward a revered memory unfulfilled.
[Sidenote: Horns of the South Peak]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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