Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Well might they stare; five hours and a quarter had
sufficed for 6500 feet of ascent.(101) We screamed triumphantly as they
turned in to breakfast.
[Illustration: Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc.]
All mountaineers know how valuable it is to study beforehand an intended
route over new ground from a height at some distance. None but blunderers
fail to do so, if it is possible; and one cannot do so too thoroughly. As
a rule, the closer one approaches underneath a summit, the more difficult
it is to pick out a path with judgment. Inferior peaks seem unduly
important, subordinate ridges are exalted, and slopes conceal points
beyond; and if one blindly undertakes an ascent, without having acquired a
tolerable notion of the relative importance of the parts, and of their
positions to one another, it will be miraculous if great difficulties are
not encountered.
But although the examination of an intended route from a height at a
distance will tell one (who knows the meaning of the things he is looking
at) a good deal, and will enable him to steer clear of many difficulties
against which he might otherwise blindly run, it will seldom allow one to
pronounce positively upon the practicability or impracticability of the
whole of the route. No living man, for example, can pronounce positively
from a distance in regard to rocks. Those just mentioned are an
illustration of this. Three of the ablest and most experienced guides
concurred in thinking that they would be found very difficult, and yet
they presented no difficulty whatever. In truth, the sounder and less
broken up are the rocks, the more impracticable do they usually look from
a distance; while soft and easily rent rocks, which are often amongst the
most difficult and perilous to climb, very frequently look from afar as if
they might be traversed by a child.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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