Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
The night passed over without anything worth mention, but we had had
occasion to observe in the morning an instance of the curious evaporation
that is frequently noticeable in the High Alps. On the previous night we
had hung up on a knob of rock our mackintosh bag containing five bottles
of Rodier’s bad wine. In the morning, although the stopper appeared to
have been in all night, about four-fifths had evaporated. It was strange;
my friends had not taken any, neither had I, and the guides each declared
that they had not seen any one touch it. In fact it was clear that there
was no explanation of the phenomenon, but in the dryness of the air. Still
it is remarkable that the dryness of the air (or the evaporation of wine)
is always greatest when a stranger is in one’s party—the dryness caused by
the presence of even a single Chamounix porter is sometimes so great, that
not four-fifths but the entire quantity disappears. For a time I found
difficulty in combating this phenomenon, but at last discovered that if I
used the wine-flask as a pillow during the night, the evaporation was
completely stopped.
At 4 A.M. we moved off across the glacier in single file towards the foot
of a great gully, which led from the upper slopes of the glacier de la
Bonne Pierre, to the lowest point in the ridge that runs from the Ecrins
to the mountain called Roche Faurio,—cheered by Rodier, who now returned
with his wraps to La Bérarde. This gully (or _couloir_) was discovered and
descended by Mr. Tuckett, and we will now return for a minute to the
explorations of that accomplished mountaineer.
In the year 1862 he had the good fortune to obtain from the _Dépôt de la
Guerre_ at Paris, a MS. copy of the then unpublished sheet 189 of the map
of France, and with it in hand, he swept backwards and forwards across the
central Dauphiné Alps, untroubled by the doubts as to the identity of
peaks, which had perplexed Mr. Macdonald and myself in 1861; and,
enlightened by it, he was able to point out (which he did in the fairest
manner) that we had confounded the Ecrins with another mountain—the Pic
Sans Nom. We made this blunder through imperfect knowledge of the district
and inaccurate reports of the natives;—but it was not an extraordinary one
(the two mountains are not unlike each other), considering the difficulty
that there is in obtaining from any except the very highest summits a
complete view of this intricate group.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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