Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
We could stay on the summit only a short time, and at a quarter to two
prepared for the descent. Now, as we looked down, and thought of what we
had passed over in coming up, we one and all hesitated about returning the
same way. Moore said, no. Walker said the same, and I too; the guides were
both of the same mind: this, be it remarked, although we had considered
that there was no chance whatever of getting up any other way. But those
“last rocks” were not to be forgotten. Had they only protruded to a
moderate extent, or had they been merely glazed, we should doubtless still
have tried: but they were not reasonable rocks,—they would neither allow
us to hold, nor would do it themselves. So we turned to the western arête,
trusting to luck that we should find a way down to the schrund, and some
means of getting over it afterwards. Our faces were a tolerable index to
our thoughts, and apparently the thoughts of the party were not happy
ones. Had any one then said to me, “You are a great fool for coming here,”
I should have answered with humility, “It is too true.” And had my monitor
gone on to say, “Swear you will never ascend another mountain if you get
down safely,” I am inclined to think I should have taken the oath. In
fact, the game here was not worth the risk. The guides felt it as well as
ourselves, and as Almer led off, he remarked, with more piety than logic,
“The good God has brought us up, and he will take us down in safety,”
which showed pretty well what _he_ was thinking about.
The ridge down which we now endeavoured to make our way was not inferior
in difficulty to the other. But were serrated to an extent that made it
impossible to keep strictly to them, and obliged us to descend
occasionally for some distance on the northern face and then mount again.
Both were so rotten that the most experienced of our party, as well as the
least, continually upset blocks large and small. Both arêtes were so
narrow, so thin, that it was often a matter for speculation on which side
an unstable block would fall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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