Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
We had been more than eight hours and a half accomplishing the ascent of
the final peak, which, according to an observation by Mr. Bonney in 1862,
is only 525 feet high.(112) During this period we had not stopped for more
than half-an-hour, and our nerves and muscles had been kept at the highest
degree of tension the whole time. It may be imagined that we accepted the
ordinary conditions of glacier travelling as an agreeable relief, and that
that which at another time might have seemed formidable we treated as the
veriest bagatelle. Late in the day as it was, and soft as was the snow, we
put on such pace that we reached the Col des Ecrins in less than forty
minutes. We lost no time in arranging our baggage, for we had still to
traverse a long glacier, and to get clear of two ice-falls before it was
dark; so, at 5.35 we resumed the march, adjourning eating and drinking,
and put on a spurt which took us clear of the Glacier Blanc by 7.45
P.M.(113) We got off the moraine of the Glacier Noir at 8.45, just as the
last remnant of daylight vanished. Croz and myself were a trifle in
advance of the others, and fortunately so for us; for as they were about
to commence the descent of the snout of the glacier, the whole of the
moraine that rested on its face peeled off, and came down with a
tremendous roar.
We had now the pleasure of walking over a plain that is known by the name
of the Pré de Madame Carle, covered with pebbles of all sizes, and
intersected by numerous small streams or torrents. Every hole looked like
a stone, every stone like a hole, and we tumbled about from side to side
until our limbs and our tempers became thoroughly jaded. My companions,
being both short-sighted, found the travelling especially disagreeable; so
there was little wonder that when we came upon a huge mass of rock as big
as a house, which had fallen from the flanks of Pelvoux, a regular cube
that offered no shelter whatever, Moore cried out in ecstasy, “Oh, how
delightful! the very thing I have been longing for. Let us have a
perfectly extemporaneous bivouac.” This, it should be said, was when the
night threatened thunder and lightning, rain, and all other delights.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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