Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Of course, in all gullies, one is liable to be encountered by falling
stones. Most of those which fall from the rocks of a couloir, sooner or
later spin down the snow which fills the trough; and, as their course and
pace are more clearly apparent when falling over snow than when jumping
from ledge to ledge, persons with lively imaginations are readily
impressed by them. The grooves which are usually seen wandering down the
length of snow couloirs are deepened (and, perhaps, occasionally
originated) by falling stones, and they are sometimes pointed out by
cautious men as reasons why couloirs should not be followed. I think they
are very frequently only gutters, caused by water trickling off the rocks.
Whether this is so or not, one should always consider the possibility of
being struck by falling stones, and, in order to lessen the risk as far as
possible, should mount upon the sides of the snow, and not up its centre.
Stones that come off the rocks will then generally fly over one’s head, or
bound down the middle of the trough at a safe distance.
At 9.30 A.M. we commenced the ascent of the couloir leading from the
nameless glacier to a point in the ridge, just to the east of Mont
Bans.(122) So far the route had been nothing more than a steep grind in an
angle where little could be seen, but now views opened out in several
directions, and the way began to be interesting. It was more so, perhaps,
to us than to our companion M. Reynaud, who had no rest in the last night.
He was, moreover, heavily laden. Science was to be regarded—his pockets
were stuffed with books; heights and angles were to be observed—his
knapsack was filled with instruments; hunger was to be guarded against—his
shoulders were ornamented with a huge nimbus of bread, and a leg of mutton
swung behind from his knapsack, looking like an overgrown tail. Being a
good-hearted fellow, he had brought this food, thinking we might be in
need of it. As it happened, we were well provided for, and having our own
packs to carry, could not relieve him of his superfluous burdens, which,
naturally, he did not like to throw away. As the angles steepened, the
strain on his strength became more and more apparent. At last he began to
groan. At first a most gentle and mellow groan; but as we rose so did his
groans, till at last the cliffs were groaning in echo, and we were moved
to laughter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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