Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Croz untied Walker in order to get rope enough, and warning us to hold
fast, sprang over the chasm. He alighted cleverly on his feet; untied
himself and sent up the rope to Walker, who followed his example. It was
then my turn, and I advanced to the edge of the ice. The second which
followed was what is called a supreme moment. That is to say, I felt
supremely ridiculous. The world seemed to revolve at a frightful pace, and
my stomach to fly away. The next moment I found myself sprawling in the
snow, and then, of course, vowed that _it was nothing_, and prepared to
encourage my friend Reynaud.
He came to the edge and made declarations. I do not believe that he was a
whit more reluctant to pass the place than we others, but he was
infinitely more demonstrative,—in a word, he was French. He wrung his
hands, “Oh! what a _diable_ of a place!” “It is nothing, Reynaud,” I said,
“it is _nothing_.” “Jump,” cried the others, “jump.” But he turned round,
as far as one can do such a thing in an ice-step, and covered his face
with his hands, ejaculating, “Upon my word, it is not possible. No! no!!
no!!! it is not possible.”
How he came over I do not know. We saw a toe—it seemed to belong to Moore;
we saw Reynaud a flying body, coming down as if taking a header into
water; with arms and legs all abroad, his leg of mutton flying in the air,
his bâton escaped from his grasp; and then we heard a thud as if a bundle
of carpets had been pitched out of a window. When set upon his feet he was
a sorry spectacle; his head was a great snowball; brandy was trickling out
of one side of the knapsack, chartreuse out of the other—we bemoaned its
loss, but we roared with laughter.
This chapter has already passed the limits within which it should have
been confined, but I cannot close it without paying tribute to the ability
with which Croz led us, through a dense mist, down the remainder of the
Glacier de Pilatte. As an exhibition of strength and skill, it has
probably never been surpassed in the Alps or elsewhere. On this almost
unknown and very steep glacier, he was perfectly at home, even in the
mists. Never able to see fifty feet ahead, he still went on with the
utmost certainty, and without having to retrace a single step; and
displayed from first to last consummate knowledge of the materials with
which he was dealing. Now he cut steps down one side of a _sérac_, went
with a dash at the other side, and hauled us up after him; then cut away
along a ridge until a point was gained from which we could jump on to
another ridge; then, doubling back, found a snow-bridge, across which he
crawled on hands and knees, towed us across by the legs, ridiculing our
apprehensions, mimicking our awkwardness, declining all help, bidding us
only to follow him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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