Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
The summit of the Aiguille Verte would have been one of the best stations
out of all these mountains for the purposes of my friend. Its great
height, and its isolated and commanding position, make it a most admirable
point for viewing the intricacies of the chain; but he exercised a wise
discretion in passing it by, and in selecting as our first excursion the
passage of the Col de Triolet.(128)
We slept under some big rocks on the Couvercle on the night of July 7,
with the thermometer at 26·5 Faht., and at 4.30 on the 8th made a straight
track to the north of the Jardin, and thence went in zigzags, to break the
ascent, over the upper slopes of the Glacier de Talèfre towards the foot
of the Aiguille de Triolet. Croz was still my guide, Reilly was
accompanied by one of the Michel Payots of Chamounix, and Henri Charlet,
of the same place, was our porter.
The way was over an undulating plain of glacier of moderate inclination
until the corner leading to the Col, from whence a steep secondary glacier
led down into the basin of the Talèfre. We experienced no difficulty in
making the ascent of this secondary glacier with such ice-men as Croz and
Payot, and at 7.50 A.M. arrived on the top of the so-called pass, at a
height, according to Mieulet, of 12,162 feet, and 4530 above our camp on
the Couvercle.
The descent was commenced by very steep, but firm, rocks, and then by a
branch of the Glacier de Triolet. Schrunds(129) were abundant; there were
no less than five extending completely across the glacier, all of which
had to be jumped. Not one was equal in dimensions to the extraordinary
chasm on the Col de Pilatte, although in the aggregate they far surpassed
it. “Our lives,” so Reilly expressed it, “were made a burden to us with
schrunds.”
We flattered ourselves that we should arrive at the chalets of Prè du Bar
very early in the day; but, owing to much time being lost on the slopes of
Mont Rouge, it was nearly 4 P.M. before we got to them. There were no
bridges across the torrent nearer than Gruetta, and rather than descend so
far, we preferred to round the base of Mont Rouge, and to cross the snout
of the Glacier du Mont Dolent.(130)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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