Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
[The descent bore a strong resemblance to the Col de Pilatte, but was very
much steeper and altogether more difficult, which is saying a good deal.
Croz was in his element, and selected his way with marvellous sagacity,
while Almer had an equally honourable and, perhaps, more responsible post
in the rear, which he kept with his usual steadiness.... One particular
passage has impressed itself on my mind as one of the most nervous I have
ever made. We had to pass along a crest of ice, a mere knife-edge,—on our
left a broad crevasse, whose bottom was lost in blue haze, and on our
right, at an angle of 70°, or more, a slope falling to a similar gulf
below. Croz, as he went along the edge, chipped small notches in the ice,
in which we placed our feet, with the toes well turned out, doing all we
knew to preserve our balance. While stepping from one of these precarious
footholds to another, I staggered for a moment. I had not really lost my
footing; but the agonised tone in which Almer, who was behind me, on
seeing me waver, exclaimed, “Slip not, sir!” gave us an even livelier
impression than we already had of the insecurity of the position.... One
huge chasm, whose upper edge was far above the lower one, could neither be
leaped nor turned, and threatened to prove an insuperable barrier. But
Croz showed himself equal to the emergency. Held up by the rest of the
party, he cut a series of holes for the hands and feet, down and along the
almost perpendicular wall of ice forming the upper side of the _schrund_.
Down this slippery staircase we crept, with our faces to the wall, until a
point was reached where the width of the chasm was not too great for us to
drop across. Before we had done, we got quite accustomed to taking flying
leaps over the _schrunds_.... To make a long story short; after a most
desperate and exciting struggle, and as bad a piece of ice-work as it is
possible to imagine, we emerged on to the upper plateau of the Hohlicht
glacier.]
The glimpses which had been caught of the lower part of the Hohlicht
glacier were discouraging, so it was now determined to cross over the
ridge between it and the Rothhorn glacier. This was not done without great
trouble. Again we rose to a height exceeding 12,000 feet. Eventually we
took to the track of the despised Triftjoch, and descended by the
well-known, but rough, path which leads to that pass; arriving at the
Monte Rosa hotel at Zermatt at 7.20 P.M. We occupied nearly twelve hours
of actual walking in coming from the chalet on the Arpitetta Alp (which
was 2½ hours above Zinal), and we consequently found that the Moming pass
was not the shortest route from Zinal to Zermatt, although it was the most
direct.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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