Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
What can one conclude, then, but that sun, frost, and water, have had
infinitely more to do than glaciers with the fashioning of mountain-forms
and valley-slopes? Who can refuse to believe that powers which are at work
everywhere, which have been at work always, which are so incomparably
active, capable, and enduring, must have produced greater effects than a
solitary power which is always local in its influence, which has worked,
_comparatively_, but for a short time, which is always slow and feeble in
its operations, and which constantly diminishes in intensity?
Yet there are some who refuse to believe that sun, frost, and water have
played an important part in modelling the Alps, and hold it as an article
of their faith that the Alpine region “owes its present conformation
mainly to the action of its ancient glaciers”!(164)
My reverie was interrupted by Croz observing that it was time to be off.
Less than two hours sufficed to take us to the glacier plateau below
(where we had left our baggage); three quarters of an hour more placed us
upon the depression between the Grand Cornier and the Dent Blanche (Col du
Grand Cornier(165)), and at 6 P.M. we arrived at Abricolla. Croz and
Biener hankered after milk, and descended to a village lower down the
valley; but Almer and I stayed where we were, and passed a chilly night on
some planks in a half-burnt chalet.(166)
CHAPTER XIII.
THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE.
“God help thee, Trav’ller, on thy journey far;
The wind is bitter keen,—the snow o’erlays
The hidden pits, and dang’rous hollow-ways,
And darkness will involve thee.—No kind star
To-night will guide thee.”...
H. KIRKE WHITE.
Croz and Biener did not return until past 5 A.M. on June 17, and we then
set out at once for Zermatt, intending to cross the Col d’Hérens. But we
did not proceed far before the attractions of the Dent Blanche were felt
to be irresistible, and we turned aside up the steep lateral glacier which
descends along its south-western face.
The Dent Blanche is a mountain that is little known except to the climbing
fraternity. It was, and is, reputed to be one of the most difficult
mountains in the Alps. Many attempts were made to scale it before its
ascent was accomplished. Even Leslie Stephen himself, fleetest of foot of
the whole Alpine brotherhood, once upon a time returned discomfited from
it.
[Illustration: LESLIE STEPHEN.]
It was not climbed until 1862; but in that year Mr. T. S. Kennedy, with
Mr. Wigram, and the guides Jean B. Croz(167) and Kronig, managed to
conquer it. They had a hard fight though before they gained the victory; a
furious wind and driving snow, added to the natural difficulties, nearly
turned the scale against them.(168)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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