Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
They are lines of rupture consequent upon unequal motion. The glaciers
below move quicker than the snow or ice which clings immediately to the
mountains; hence these fissures result. The slower motion of that which is
above can only be attributed to its having to sustain greater friction;
for the rule is that the upper portion is set at a steeper angle than the
lower. As that is the case, we should expect that the upper portion would
move _quicker_ than the lower, and it would do so, doubtless, but for the
retardation of the rocks over which, and through which, it passes.(170)
We crossed the bergschrund of the Dent Blanche, I suppose, at a height of
about 12,000 feet above the level of the sea. Our work may be said to have
commenced at that point. The face, although not steep in its general
inclination, was so cut up by little ridges and cliffs, and so seamed with
incipient couloirs, that it had all the difficulty of a much more
precipitous slope. The difficulties were never great, but they were
numerous, and made a very respectable total when put together. We passed
the bergschrund soon after nine in the morning, and during the next eleven
hours halted only five-and-forty minutes. The whole of the remainder of
the time was occupied in ascending and descending the 2400 feet which
compose this south-western face; and inasmuch as 1000 feet per hour
(taking the mean of ascent and descent) is an ordinary rate of
progression, it is tolerably certain that the Dent Blanche is a mountain
of exceptional difficulty.
The hindrances opposed to us by the mountain itself were, however, as
nothing compared with the atmospheric obstructions. It is true there was
plenty of, “Are you fast, Almer?” “Yes.” “Go ahead, Biener.” Biener, made
secure, cried, “Come on, sir,” and _Monsieur_ endeavoured. “No, no,” said
Almer, “not there,—_here_,”—pointing with his bâton to the right place to
clutch. Then ’twas Croz’s turn, and we all drew in the rope as the great
man followed. “Forwards” once more—and so on.
Five hundred feet of this kind of work had been accomplished when we were
saluted (not entirely unexpectedly) by the first gust of a hurricane which
was raging above. The day was a lovely one for dwellers in the valleys,
but we had, long ago, noted some light, gossamer clouds, that were
hovering round our summit, being drawn out in a suspicious manner into
long, silky threads. Croz, indeed, prophesied before we had crossed the
schrund, that we should be beaten by the wind, and had advised that we
should return. But I had retorted, “No, my good Croz, you said just now
‘Dent Blanche is best’; we must go up the Dent Blanche.”
I have a very lively and disagreeable recollection of this wind. Upon the
outskirts of the disturbed region it was only felt occasionally. It then
seemed to make rushes at one particular man, and when it had discomfited
him, it whisked itself away to some far-off spot, only to return,
presently, in greater force than before.
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