Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Almer went to the front. He commenced by returning in the track for a
hundred yards or so, and then started off at a tangent from Croz’s curve.
We kept this course for half-an-hour, and then were certain that we were
not on the right route, because the snow became decidedly steep. We bore
away more and more to the right, to avoid this steep bank, but at last I
rebelled, as we had for some time been going almost south-west, which was
altogether the wrong direction. After a long discussion we returned some
distance in our track, and then steered a little east of south, but we
continually met steep snow-slopes, and to avoid them went right or left as
the case might require.
We were greatly puzzled, and could not in the least tell whether we were
too near the Dent Blanche or too close to the Tête Blanche. The mists had
thickened, and were now as dense as a moderate London fog. There were no
rocks or echoes to direct us, and the guidance of the compass brought us
invariably against these steep snow-banks. The men were fairly beaten;
they had all had a try, or more than one, and at last gave it up as a bad
job, and asked what was to be done. It was 7.30 P.M. and only an hour of
daylight was left. We were beginning to feel used up, for we had wandered
about at tip-top speed for the last three hours and a half, so I said,
“This is my advice; let us turn in our track, and go back as hard as ever
we can, not quitting the track for an instant.” They were well content,
but just as we were starting off, the clouds lifted a little, and we
thought we saw the Col. It was then to our right, and we went at it with a
dash. Before we had gone a hundred paces down came the mist again. We kept
on nevertheless for twenty minutes, and then, as darkness was perceptibly
coming on, and the snow was yet rising in front, we turned back, and by
running down the entire distance managed to get clear of the Ferpècle
glacier just as it became pitch dark. We arrived at our cheerless chalet
in due course, and went to bed supperless, for our food was gone; all very
sulky—not to say savage—agreeing in nothing except in bullying Biener.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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