Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
On June 23 we mounted to the top of Mont Saxe, to scan the Grandes
Jorasses, with the view of ascending it. Five thousand feet of
glacier-covered precipices rose above us, and up all that height we
tracked a way to our satisfaction. Three thousand feet more of glacier and
forest-covered slopes lay beneath, and _there_, there was only one point
at which it was doubtful if we should find a path. The glaciers were
shrinking, and were surrounded by bastions of rounded rock, far too
polished to please the rough mountaineer. We could not track a way across
them. However, at 4 A.M. the next day, under the dexterous leading of
Michel Croz, we passed the doubtful spot. Thence it was all plain sailing,
and at 1 P.M. we gained the summit. The weather was boisterous in the
upper regions, and storm-clouds driven before the wind, and wrecked
against our heights, enveloped us in misty spray, which danced around and
fled away, which cut us off from the material universe, and caused us to
be, as it were, suspended betwixt heaven and earth, seeing both
occasionally, but seeming to belong to neither.
The mists lasted longer than my patience, and we descended without having
attained the object for which the ascent was made. At first we followed
the little ridge shown upon the accompanying engraving, leading from our
summit towards the spectator, and then took to the head of the corridor of
glacier on its left, which in the view is left perfectly white. The slopes
were steep and covered with new-fallen snow, flour-like and evil to tread
upon. On the ascent we had reviled it, and had made our staircase with
much caution, knowing full well that the disturbance of its base would
bring down all that was above. In descending, the bolder spirits
counselled trusting to luck and a glissade; the cautious ones advocated
avoiding the slopes and crossing to the rocks on their farther side. The
advice of the latter prevailed, and we had half-traversed the snow, to
gain the ridge, when the crust slipped and we went along with it. “Halt!”
broke from all four, unanimously. The axe-heads flew round as we started
on this involuntary glissade. It was useless, they slid over the
underlying ice fruitlessly. “Halt!” thundered Croz, as he dashed his
weapon in again with superhuman energy. No halt could be made, and we slid
down slowly, but with accelerating motion, driving up waves of snow in
front, with streams of the nasty stuff hissing all around. Luckily, the
slope eased off at one place, the leading men cleverly jumped aside out of
the moving snow, we others followed, and the young avalanche which we had
started, continuing to pour down, fell into a yawning crevasse, and showed
us where our grave would have been if we had remained in its company five
seconds longer. The whole affair did not occupy half-a-minute. It was the
solitary incident of a long day, and at nightfall we re-entered the
excellent house kept by the courteous Bertolini, well satisfied that we
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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