Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
[Illustration: Crampon]
Almer and Biener got to the end of their tether; the rope no longer
assured their safety, and they stopped work as we advanced and coiled it
up. Shortly afterwards they struck a streak of snow that proved to be just
above the bridge of which they were in search. The slope steepened, and
for thirty feet or so we descended face to the wall, making steps by
kicking with the toes, and thrusting the arms well into the holes above,
just as if they had been rounds in a ladder. At this time we were crossing
the uppermost of the schrunds. Needless to say that the snow was of an
admirable quality; this performance would otherwise have been impossible.
It was soon over, and we then found ourselves upon a huge rhomboidal mass
of ice, and still separated from the Argentière glacier by a gigantic
crevasse. The only bridge over this lower schrund was at its eastern end,
and we were obliged to double back to get to it. Cutting continued for
half-an-hour after it was passed, and it was 5.35 P.M. before the axes
stopped work, and we could at last turn back and look comfortably at the
formidable slope upon which seven hours had been spent.(190)
The Col Dolent is not likely to compete with the Col du Géant, and I would
recommend any person who starts to cross it to allow himself plenty of
time, plenty of rope, and ample guide-power. There is no difficulty
whatever upon any part of the route, excepting upon the steep slopes
immediately below the summit on each side. When we arrived upon the
Glacier d’Argentière, our work was as good as over. We drove a straight
track to the chalets of Lognan, and thence the way led over familiar
ground. Soon after dusk we got into the high road at les Tines, and at 10
P.M. arrived at Chamounix. Our labours were duly rewarded. Houris brought
us champagne and the other drinks which are reserved for the faithful, but
before my share was consumed I fell asleep in an arm-chair. I slept
soundly until daybreak, and then turned into bed and went to sleep again.
CHAPTER XVI.
THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE.
“Few have the fortitude of soul to honour,
A friend’s success, without a touch of envy.”
ÆSCHYLUS.
Michel Croz now parted from us. His new employer had not arrived at
Chamounix, but Croz considered that he was bound by honour to wait for
him, and thus Christian Almer, of Grindelwald, became my leading guide.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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