Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
When one looks toward the upper end of the Glacier de Talèfre from the
direction of the Jardin or of the Couvercle, the ridge that bounds the
view seems to be of little elevation. It is overpowered by the colossal
Grandes Jorasses, and by the almost equally magnificent Aiguille Verte.
The ridge, notwithstanding, is by no means despicable. At no point is its
elevation less than 11,600 feet. It does not look anything like this
height. The Glacier de Talèfre mounts with a steady incline, and the eye
is completely deceived.
In 1864, when prowling about with Mr. Reilly, I instinctively fixed upon a
bent couloir which led up from the glacier to the lowest part of the
ridge; and when, after crossing the Col de Triolet, I saw that the other
side presented no particular difficulty, it seemed to me that this was the
_one_ point in the whole of the range which would afford an easier passage
than the Col du Géant.
We set out from the Montanvert at 4 A.M. upon July 3, to see whether this
opinion was correct, and it fortunately happened that the Rev. A. G.
Girdlestone and a friend, with two Chamounix guides, left the inn at the
same hour as ourselves, to cross the Col du Géant. We kept in company as
far as our routes lay together, and at 9.35 we arrived at the top of our
pass, having taken the route to the south of the Jardin. Description is
unnecessary, as our track is laid down very clearly on the engraving at
the head of this chapter.
Much snow had fallen during the late bad weather, and as we reposed upon
the top of our pass (which was about 11,650 feet above the level of the
sea, and 600 feet above the Col du Géant), we saw that the descent of the
rocks which intervened between us and the Glacier de Triolet would require
some caution, for the sun’s rays poured down directly upon them, and the
snow slipped away every now and then from ledge to ledge just as if it had
been water,—in cascades not large enough to be imposing, but sufficient to
knock us over if we got in their way. This little bit of cliff
consequently took a longer time than it should have done, for when we
heard the indescribable swishing, hissing sound which announced a coming
fall, we of necessity huddled under the lee of the rocks until the snow
ceased to shoot over us.
We got to the level of the Glacier de Triolet without misadventure, then
steered for its left bank to avoid the upper of its two formidable
ice-falls, and after descending the requisite distance by some old snow
lying between the glacier and the cliffs which border it, crossed directly
to the right bank over the level ice between the two ice-falls.(200) The
right bank was gained without any trouble, and we found there numerous
beds of hard snow (avalanche débris) down which we could run or glissade
as fast as we liked.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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