Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
We passed the night of July 4, at Aosta, under the roof of the genial
Tairraz, and on the 5th went by the Val d’Ollomont and the Col de la
Fenêtre (9140) to Chermontane. We slept that night at the chalets of
Chanrion (a foul spot, which should be avoided), left them at 3.50 the
next morning, and after a short scramble over the slope above, and a
half-mile tramp on the glacier de Breney, we crossed directly to the
Ruinette, and went almost straight up it. There is not, I suppose, another
mountain in the Alps of the same height that can be ascended so easily.
You have only to go ahead: upon its southern side one can walk about
almost anywhere.
Though I speak thus slightingly of a very respectable peak, I will not do
anything of the kind in regard to the view which it gives. It is happily
placed in respect to the rest of the Pennine Alps, and as a stand-point it
has not many superiors. You see mountains, and nothing but mountains. It
is a solemn—some would say a dreary—view, but it is very grand. The great
Combin (14,164), with its noble background of the whole range of Mont
Blanc, never looks so big as it does from here. In the contrary direction,
the Matterhorn overpowers all besides. The Dent d’Hérens, although closer,
looks a mere outlier of its great neighbour, and the snows of Monte Rosa,
behind, seem intended for no other purpose than to give relief to the
crags in front. To the south there is an endless array of Bec’s and
Becca’s, backed by the great Italian peaks, whilst to the north Mont
Pleureur (12,159) holds it own against the more distant Wildstrubel.
We gained the summit at 9.15,(203) and stayed there an hour and a half. My
faithful guides then admonished me that Prerayen, whither we were bound,
was still far away, and that we had yet to cross two lofty ridges. So we
resumed our harness and departed; not, however, before a huge cairn had
been built out of the blocks of gneiss with which the summit is bestrewn.
Then we trotted down the slopes of the Ruinette, over the glacier de
Breney, and across a pass which (if it deserves a name) may be called the
Col des Portons, after the neighbouring peaks. Thence we proceeded across
the great Otemma glacier towards the Col d’Olen.
The part of the glacier that we traversed was overspread with snow which
completely concealed its numerous pitfalls. We marched across it in single
file, and, of course, roped together. All at once Almer dropped into a
crevasse up to his shoulders. I pulled in the rope immediately, but the
snow gave way as it was being done, and I had to spread out my arms to
stop my descent. Biener held fast, and said afterwards, that his feet went
through as well; so, for a moment, all three were in the jaws of the
crevasse. We now altered our course, so as to take the fissures
transversely, and changed it again after the centre of the glacier was
passed, and made directly for the summit of the Col d’Olen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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