Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
We assembled together outside the tent before dawn on the morning of the
14th, and started directly it was light enough to move. Young Peter came
on with us as a guide, and his brother returned to Zermatt.(219) We
followed the route which had been taken on the previous day, and in a few
minutes turned the rib which had intercepted the view of the eastern face
from our tent platform. The whole of this great slope was now revealed,
rising for 3000 feet like a huge natural staircase.(220) Some parts were
more, and others were less, easy; but we were not once brought to a halt
by any serious impediment, for when an obstruction was met in front it
could always be turned to the right or to the left. For the greater part
of the way there was, indeed, no occasion for the rope, and sometimes
Hudson led, sometimes myself. At 6.20 we had attained a height of 12,800
feet, and halted for half-an-hour; we then continued the ascent without a
break until 9.55, when we stopped for 50 minutes, at a height of 14,000
feet. Twice we struck the N.E. ridge, and followed it for some little
distance,(221)—to no advantage, for it was usually more rotten and steep,
and always more difficult than the face.(222) Still, we kept near to it,
lest stones perchance might fall.(223)
We had now arrived at the foot of that part which, from the Riffelberg or
from Zermatt, seems perpendicular or overhanging, and could no longer
continue upon the eastern side. For a little distance we ascended by snow
upon the arête(224)—that is, the ridge—descending towards Zermatt, and
then, by common consent, turned over to the right, or to the northern
side. Before doing so, we made a change in the order of ascent. Croz went
first, I followed, Hudson came third; Hadow and old Peter were last.
“Now,” said Croz, as he led off, “now for something altogether different.”
The work became difficult, and required caution. In some places there was
little to hold, and it was desirable that those should be in front who
were least likely to slip. The general slope of the mountain at this part
was _less_ than 40°, and snow had accumulated in, and had filled up, the
interstices of the rock-face, leaving only occasional fragments projecting
here and there. These were at times covered with a thin film of ice,
produced from the melting and refreezing of the snow. It was the
counterpart, on a small scale, of the upper 700 feet of the Pointe des
Ecrins,—only there was this material difference; the face of the Ecrins
was about, or exceeded, an angle of 50°, and the Matterhorn face was less
than 40°.(225) It was a place over which any fair mountaineer might pass
in safety, and Mr. Hudson ascended this part, and, as far as I know, the
entire mountain, without having the slightest assistance rendered to him
upon any occasion. Sometimes, after I had taken a hand from Croz, or
received a pull, I turned to offer the same to Hudson; but he invariably
declined, saying it was not necessary. Mr. Hadow, however, was not
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