Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Hudson and I again consulted as to the best and safest arrangement of the
party. We agreed that it would be best for Croz to go first,(234) and
Hadow second; Hudson, who was almost equal to a guide in sureness of foot,
wished to be third; Lord F. Douglas was placed next, and old Peter, the
strongest of the remainder, after him. I suggested to Hudson that we
should attach a rope to the rocks on our arrival at the difficult bit, and
hold it as we descended, as an additional protection. He approved the
idea, but it was not definitely settled that it should be done. The party
was being arranged in the above order whilst I was sketching the summit,
and they had finished, and were waiting for me to be tied in line, when
some one remembered that our names had not been left in a bottle. They
requested me to write them down, and moved off while it was being done.
A few minutes afterwards I tied myself to young Peter, ran down after the
others, and caught them just as they were commencing the descent of the
difficult part.(235) Great care was being taken. Only one man was moving
at a time; when he was firmly planted the next advanced, and so on. They
had not, however, attached the additional rope to rocks, and nothing was
said about it. The suggestion was not made for my own sake, and I am not
sure that it even occurred to me again. For some little distance we two
followed the others, detached from them, and should have continued so had
not Lord F. Douglas asked me, about 3 P.M., to tie on to old Peter, as he
feared, he said, that Taugwalder would not be able to hold his ground if a
slip occurred.
A few minutes later, a sharp-eyed lad ran into the Monte Rosa hotel, to
Seiler, saying that he had seen an avalanche fall from the summit of the
Matterhorn on to the Matterhorngletscher. The boy was reproved for telling
idle stories; he was right, nevertheless, and this was what he saw.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account