Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
So perished our comrades! For the space of half-an-hour we remained on the
spot without moving a single step. The two men, paralysed by terror, cried
like infants, and trembled in such a manner as to threaten us with the
fate of the others. Old Peter rent the air with exclamations of
“Chamounix! Oh, what will Chamounix say?” He meant, Who would believe that
Croz could fall? The young man did nothing but scream or sob, “We are
lost! we are lost!” Fixed between the two, I could neither move up nor
down. I begged young Peter to descend, but he dared not. Unless he did, we
could not advance. Old Peter became alive to the danger, and swelled the
cry, “We are lost! we are lost!” The father’s fear was natural—he trembled
for his son; the young man’s fear was cowardly—he thought of self alone.
At last old Peter summoned up courage, and changed his position to a rock
to which he could fix the rope; the young man then descended, and we all
stood together. Immediately we did so, I asked for the rope which had
given way, and found, to my surprise—indeed, to my horror—that it was the
weakest of the three ropes. It was not brought, and should not have been
employed, for the purpose for which it was used. It was old rope, and,
compared with the others, was feeble. It was intended as a reserve, in
case we had to leave much rope behind, attached to rocks. I saw at once
that a serious question was involved, and made him give me the end. It had
broken in mid-air, and it did not appear to have sustained previous
injury.
For more than two hours afterwards I thought almost every moment that the
next would be my last; for the Taugwalders, utterly unnerved, were not
only incapable of giving assistance, but were in such a state that a slip
might have been expected from them at any moment. After a time we were
able to do that which should have been done at first, and fixed rope to
firm rocks, in addition to being tied together. These ropes were cut from
time to time, and were left behind.(239) Even with their assurance the men
were sometimes afraid to proceed, and several times old Peter turned with
ashy face and faltering limbs, and said, with terrible emphasis, “_I
cannot!_”
[Illustration: FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1865.
“THE TAUGWALDERS THOUGHT THAT IT HAD SOME CONNECTION WITH THE ACCIDENT”]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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