Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
On February 28, 1864, Mr. P. C. Gosset and Mr. B—— started from the
village of Ardon (about mid-way between Sion and Martigny), to make the
ascent of the Haut-de-Cry (9688 feet), with the guides J. J. Nance, F.
Rebot, A. Bevard, and J. J. Bennen. They arrived within a few hundred feet
of the summit before mid-day, and determined to complete the ascent by
following the crest of a ridge leading towards the east. Before this could
be done it was necessary to cross some steep snow; and, while passing
this, an avalanche was unfortunately started. Bennen and Mr. B—— perished;
the others happily escaped. The following narrative, from the pen of Mr.
Gosset, illustrates, in a very impressive manner, the danger of traversing
new-fallen snow at considerable inclinations:—
“We had to go up a steep snow-field, about 800 feet high, as well
as I remember. It was about 150 feet broad at the top, and 400 or
500 at the bottom. It was a sort of couloir on a large scale.
During the ascent we sank about one foot deep at every step.
Bennen did not seem to like the look of the snow very much. He
asked the local guides whether avalanches ever came down this
couloir, to which they answered that our position was perfectly
safe. We had mounted on the northern side of the couloir, and
having arrived at 150 feet from the top, we began crossing it on a
horizontal curve, so as to gain the E. arête. The inflexion or dip
of the couloir was slight, not above 25 feet, the inclination near
35°. We were walking in the following order:—Bevard, Nance,
Bennen, myself, B., and Rebot. Having crossed over about
three-quarters of the breadth of the couloir, the two leading men
suddenly sank considerably above their waists. Bennen tightened
the rope. The snow was too deep to think of getting out of the
hole they had made, so they advanced one or two steps, dividing
the snow with their bodies. Bennen turned round and told us he was
afraid of starting an avalanche; we asked whether it would not be
better to return and cross the couloir higher up. To this the
three Ardon men opposed themselves; they mistook the proposed
precaution for fear, and the two leading men continued their work.
After three or four steps gained in the aforesaid manner, the snow
became hard again. Bennen had not moved—he was evidently undecided
what he should do; as soon, however, as he saw hard snow again, he
advanced and crossed parallel to, but above, the furrow the Ardon
men had made. Strange to say, the snow supported him. While he was
passing I observed that the leader, Bevard, had ten or twelve feet
of rope coiled round his shoulder. I of course at once told him to
uncoil it and get on the arête, from which he was not more than
fifteen feet distant. Bennen then told me to follow. I tried his
steps, but sank up to my waist in the very first. So I went
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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