Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
*D.* SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN.(258)
The Val Tournanche natives who started to facilitate the way up the
south-west ridge of the Matterhorn for MM. Giordano and Sella, pitched
their tent upon my third platform, at the foot of the Great Tower (12,992
feet), and enjoyed several days of bad weather under its shelter. On the
first fine day (13th of July) they began their work, and about midday on
the 14th got on to the “shoulder,” and arrived at the base of the final
peak (the point where Bennen stopped on July 28, 1862). The counsels of
the party were then divided. Two—Jean-Antoine Carrel and Joseph
Maquignaz—wished to go on; the others were not eager about it. A
discussion took place, and the result was they all commenced to descend,
and whilst upon the “cravate” (13,524) they heard our cries from the
summit.(259) Upon the 15th they went down to Breil and reported their
ill-success to M. Giordano (see p. 281). That gentleman was naturally much
disappointed, and pressed the men to set out again.(260) Said he, “Until
now I have striven for the honour of making the first ascent,—fate has
decided against me,—I am beaten. Patience! Now, if I make further
sacrifices it will be on your account, for your honour, and for your
interests. Will you start again to settle the question, or, at least, to
let there be no more uncertainty?” The majority of the men (in fact the
whole of them with the exception of Jean-Antoine) refused point-blank to
have anything more to do with the mountain. Carrel, however, stepped
forward, saying, “As for me, I have not given it up; if you (turning to
the Abbé Gorret) or the others will come, I will start again immediately.”
“Not I!” said one. “No more for me,” cried a second. “If you would give me
a thousand francs I would not go back,” said a third. The Abbé Gorret
alone volunteered. This plucky priest was concerned in the very first
attempts upon the mountain,(261) and is an enthusiastic mountaineer.
Carrel and the Abbé would have set out by themselves had not J. B. Bich
and J.-A. Meynet (two men in the employ of Favre the innkeeper) come
forward at the last moment. M. Giordano also wished to accompany them, but
the men knew the nature of the work they had to undertake, and positively
declined to be accompanied by an amateur.
These four men left Breil at 6.30 A.M. on July 16, at 1 P.M. arrived at
the third tent-platform, and there passed the night. At daybreak on the
17th they continued the ascent by the route which had been taken before;
passed successively the Great Tower, the “crête du coq,” the “cravate,”
and the “shoulder,”(262) and at 10 A.M. gained the point at the foot of
the final peak from which the explorers had turned back on the 14th.(263)
They had then about 800 feet to accomplish, and, says the Abbé, “nous
allions entrer en pays inconnu, aucun n’étant jamais allé aussi loin.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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