Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
“Our route was identical with that which they followed in their
descent when, as will be seen, they struck out on one part of the
mountain a different line from that which they had taken in
ascending. After gaining the Col du Lion, we climbed the
south-western or Breil _arête_ by the route which has been
described in these pages, passing the night at the then unfinished
hut constructed by the Italian Alpine Club on the ‘cravate.’
Starting from the hut at daylight, we reached at an early hour the
summit of the ‘shoulder,’ and then traversed its _arête_ to the
final peak of the Matterhorn. The passage of this _arête_ was
perhaps the most enjoyable part of the whole expedition. The
ridge, worn by slow irregular decay into monstrous and rugged
battlements, and guarded on each side by tremendous precipices, is
grand beyond all description, but does not, strange to say,
present any remarkable difficulty to the climber, save that it is
exceedingly trying to the head. Great care is of course necessary,
but the scramble is by no means of so arduous a nature as entirely
to absorb the attention; so that a fine climb, and rock scenery,
of grandeur perhaps unparalleled in the Alps, can both be
appreciated.
“It was near the end of this _arête_, close to the place where it
abuts against the final peak, that Professor Tyndall’s party
turned in 1862,(267) arrested by a cleft in the ridge. From the
point where they stopped the main tower of the Matterhorn rises in
front of the climber, abrupt, magnificent, and apparently
inaccessible. The summit is fully 750 feet in vertical height
above this spot, and certainly, to my eye, appeared to be
separated from me by a yet more considerable interval; for I
remember, when at the end of the _arête_, looking upward at the
crest of the mountain, and thinking that it must be a good 1000
feet above me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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