Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Amongst the ascents that have been made which are most worthy of note,
that made by Signor Giordano may be mentioned first. This gentleman came
to Breil several times after his famous visit in 1865, with the intention
of making the ascent, but he was always baffled by the weather. In July
1866 he got as high as the “cravate” (with J. A. Carrel and other men) and
_was detained there five days and nights, unable to move either up or
down_. At last, upon Sept. 3-5, 1868, he was able to gratify his desires,
and accomplished the feat of ascending the mountain on one side and
descending it upon the other. Signor Giordano is, I believe, the only
geologist who has ascended the mountain. He spent a considerable time in
the examination of its structure, and became benighted on its eastern face
in consequence. I am indebted to him for the valuable note and the
accompanying section which follow the Table of Ascents. Signor Giordano
carried a mercurial barometer throughout the entire distance, and read it
frequently. His observations have enabled me to determine with confidence
and accuracy the heights which were attained upon the different attempts
to ascend the mountain, and the various points upon it which have been so
frequently mentioned throughout this volume.
Questions having been frequently put to me respecting the immediate summit
of the Matterhorn, and difficulties having been expressed as to the
recognition of the two views given upon pp. 279 and 281, I made an ascent
of the mountain in 1874 to photograph the summit, in order that I might
see what changes had occurred since our visit of ten years before. The
summits of all high mountains vary from time to time, and I was not
surprised to find that the Matterhorn was no exception to the general
rule. It was altogether sharper and narrower in 1874 than 1865. Instead of
being able “to run about,” every step had to be painfully cut with the
axe; and the immediate summit, instead of being a blunt and rounded
eminence, was a little piled-up cone of snow which went to a very sharp
point. Our photographic operations were conducted with difficulty, for a
furious north wind was blowing which would have whisked away the camera
immediately if it had been set up in the most convenient position for
taking a view; and we were compelled to cut a great gash in the snow and
to work down upon the edge of the cliff overlooking Breil before we could
escape from the gusts which were whirling away the snow in writhing
eddies. My guides J. A. Carrel, Bic, and Lochmatter formed a strong party,
and eventually we gained a position, protected from the wind, whence there
was a good view of the summit; but our ledge was so small that we could
not venture to unrope, and Carrel had to squat down whilst I photographed
over his head. The engraving upon p. 311 has been made from the photograph
so taken. It will interest some of my readers to know that the nearest
peak, seen below, is the summit of the Dent d’Hérens.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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