Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
63 This appeared to be the most difficult part of the mountain. One was
driven to keep to the edge of the ridge, or very near to it; and at
the point where we turned back (which was almost as high as the
_highest_ part of the “cravate,” and perhaps 100 feet higher than my
scramble on the 19th) there were smooth walls seven or eight feet
high in every direction, which were impassable to a single man, and
which could only be surmounted by the assistance of ladders, or by
using one’s comrades as ladders.
64 See Appendix H.
65 Professor Tyndall describes this incident in the following
words:—“We had gathered up our traps, and bent to the work before
us, when suddenly an explosion occurred overhead. We looked aloft
and saw in mid-air a solid shot from the Matterhorn describing its
proper parabola, and finally splitting into fragments as it smote
one of the rocky towers in front. Down the shattered fragments came
like a kind of spray, slightly wide of us, but still near enough to
compel a sharp look-out. Two or three such explosions occurred, but
we chose the back fin of the mountain for our track, and from this
the falling stones were speedily deflected right or left.”—_Saturday
Review_, Aug. 8, 1863. Reprinted in _Macmillan’s Magazine_, April,
1869.
_ 66 Saturday Review_, August 8, 1863.
67 The pinnacle, in fact, had a name,—“L’ange Anbé.”
_ 68 Saturday Review_, 1863, and _Macmillan’s Magazine_, 1869.
69 I have entered into this matter because much surprise has been
expressed that Carrel was able to pass this place without any great
difficulty in 1865, which turned back so strong a party in 1862. The
cause of Professor Tyndall’s defeat was simply that his second guide
(Walter) did not give aid to Bennen when it was required, and that
the Carrels _would not act as guides after having been hired as
porters_. J.-A. Carrel not only knew of the existence of this place
before they came to it, but always believed in the possibility of
passing it, and of ascending the mountain; and had he been leader to
the party, I do not doubt that he might have taken Tyndall to the
top. But when appealed to to assist Bennen (a Swiss, and the
recognised leader of the party), was it likely that he (an Italian,
a porter), who intended to be the first man up the mountain by a
route which he regarded peculiarly his own, would render any aid?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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