79 On p. 7 it is stated that there was not a pass from Prerayen to Breil in 1860, and this is correct. On July 8, 1868, my enterprising guide, Jean-Antoine Carrel, started from Breil at 2 A.M. with a well-known comrade—J. Baptiste Bich, of Val Tournanche—to endeavour to make one. They went towards the glacier which descends from the Dent d’Erin to the south-east, and, on arriving at its base, ascended at first by some snow between it and the cliffs on its south, and afterwards took to the cliffs themselves. [This glacier they called the glacier of Mont Albert, after the local name of the peak which on Mr. Reilly’s map of the Valpelline is called “Les Jumeaux.” On Mr. Reilly’s map the glacier is called “Glacier d’Erin.”] They ascended the rocks to a considerable height, and then struck across the glacier, towards the north, to a small “_rognon_” (isolated patch of rocks) that is nearly in the centre of the glacier. They passed above this, and between it and the great _séracs_. Afterwards their route led them towards the Dent d’Erin, and they arrived at the base of its final peak by mounting a _couloir_ (gully filled with snow), and the rocks at the head of the glacier. They gained the summit of their pass at 1 P.M., and, descending by the glacier of Zardesan, arrived at Prerayen at 6.30 P.M. As their route joins that taken by Messrs. Hall, Grove, and Macdonald, on their ascent of the Dent d’Erin in 1863, it is evident that that mountain can be ascended from Breil. Carrel considers that the route taken by himself and his comrade Bich can be improved upon; and, if so, it is possible that the ascent of the Dent d’Erin can be made from Breil in less time than from Prerayen. Breil is very much to be preferred as a starting-point. 80 See p. 8. The height of this pass, according to the late Canon Carrel, is 10,335 feet. A portrait of this enthusiastic and worthy mountaineer is given upon p. 109. 81 A brief account of this excursion was published in the _Athenæum_, August 29, 1863. 82 This incident occurred close to the place represented in the engraving facing p. 78. The new, dry snow was very troublesome, and poured down like flour into the steps which were cut across the slopes. The front man accordingly moved ahead as far as possible, and anchored himself to rocks. A rope was sent across to him, was fixed at each end, and was held as a rail by the others as they crossed. We did not trust to this rope alone, but were also tied in the usual manner. The second rope was employed as an additional security against slips.