Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
In 1869 I carefully examined the eastern end of the ridge from the
top of the Col de Lautaret, and saw that the summit at that end can
be ascended by following a long glacier which descends from it
towards the N.E. into the Valley of Arsine. The highest summit
presents considerable difficulties.
Sheet 189 of the French map is extremely inaccurate in the
neighbourhood of the Meije, and particularly so on its northern
side. The ridges and glaciers which are laid down upon it can
scarcely be identified on the spot.
99 The justness of the observation will be felt by those who knew La
Grave in or before 1864. At that time the horses of the couriers who
were passing from Grenoble to Briançon, and _vice versa_, were
lodged immediately underneath the salle-à-manger and bedrooms, and a
pungent, steamy odour rose from them through the cracks in the
floor, and constantly pervaded the whole house. I am told that the
inn has been considerably improved since 1864.
100 Our route from La Grave to La Bérarde will be seen on the
accompanying map.
101 Taking one kind of work with another, a thousand feet of height per
hour is about as much as is usually accomplished on great Alpine
ascents.
102 Fig. 2 represents in a similar manner the distance and elevation of
the Matterhorn from and above Zermatt. See p. 45.
103 The drawing was inadvertently made the right way on the wood, and
the view is now _reversed_ in consequence.
104 This wall may be described as an exaggerated Gemmi, as seen from
Leukerbad. From the highest summit of La Meije right down to the
Glacier des Etançons (a depth of about 3200 feet), the cliff is all
but perpendicular, and appears to be completely unassailable. It is
the most imposing thing of its kind that I have seen.
105 Since this chapter was first printed, the whole of the Aiguilles
d’Arve have been ascended, and also the highest point of the Meije.
For information upon these ascents the reader is referred to the
pages of the _Alpine Journal_.
_ 106 Alpine Journal_, December 1863.
107 There are more than twenty peaks exceeding 12,000 feet, and thirty
others exceeding 11,000 feet, within the district bounded by the
rivers Romanche, Drac, and Durance.
_ 108 Alpine Journal_, Dec. 1863.
_ 109 Alpine Journal_, June 1863.
110 The above view of the Ecrins was taken from the summit of the Col du
Galibier.
111 The most striking example which has come under my notice is referred
to in Chapter XIX.
112 See vol. i., p. 73 of _Alpine Journal_. We considered the height
assigned to the final peak by Mr. Bonney was too small, and thought
it should have been 200 feet more.
113 The Glacier Blanc is in the direction indicated by the arrow below
the letter *E* on the outline on p. 156.
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