Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
206 When several persons are descending such places, it is evident that
the _last man_ cannot derive any assistance from the rope, and so
might as well be untied. Partly upon this account, it is usual to
place one of the strongest and steadiest men last. Now, although
this cannot be termed a senseless precaution, it is obvious that it
is a perfectly useless one, if it is true that a single slip would
upset the entire party. The best plan I know is that which we
adopted on the descent of the Col Dolent, namely, to let one man go
in advance until he reaches some secure point. This one then
detaches himself, the rope is drawn up, and another man is sent down
to join him, and so on until the last. The last man still occupies
the most difficult post, and should be the steadiest man; but he is
not exposed to any risk from his comrades slipping, and they, of
course, draw in the rope as he descends, so that his position is
less hazardous than if he were to come down quite by himself.
207 If you are out upon an excursion, and find the work becoming so
arduous that you have great difficulty in maintaining your balance,
you should at once retire, and not imperil the lives of others. I am
well aware that the withdrawal of one person for such reasons would
usually necessitate the retreat of a second, and that expeditions
would be often cut short if this were to happen. With the fear of
this before their eyes, I believe that many amateurs continue to go
on, albeit well convinced that they ought not. They do not wish to
stop the sport of their comrades; but they frequently suffer mental
tortures in consequence, which most emphatically do not assist their
stability, and are likely to lead to something even more
disagreeable than the abandonment of the excursion. The moral is,
take an adequate number of guides.
208 During the preceding eighteen days (I exclude Sundays and other
non-working days) we ascended more than 100,000 feet, and descended
98,000 feet.
209 See p. 79.
210 Tourists usually congregate at Zermatt upon Sundays, and large gangs
and droves cross the Théodule pass on Mondays.
211 The Italian Minister. Signor Giordano had undertaken the business
arrangements for Signor Sella.
212 Peter Taugwalder, the father, is called _old_ Peter, to distinguish
him from his eldest son, _young_ Peter. In 1865 the father’s age was
about 45.
213 Brother of the present Marquis of Queensberry.
214 For route, and the others mentioned in the subsequent chapters, see
map of Matterhorn and its glaciers.
215 The two young Taugwalders were taken as porters, by desire of their
father, and carried provisions amply sufficient for three days, in
case the ascent should prove more troublesome than we anticipated.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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