Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Professor Tyndall had arrived while we were absent, and he had engaged
both Cæsar and Jean-Antoine Carrel. Bennen was also with him, together
with a powerful and active friend, a Valaisan guide, named Anton Walter.
They had a ladder already prepared, provisions were being collected, and
they intended to start on the following morning (Sunday). This new arrival
took me by surprise. Bennen, it will be remembered, refused point-blank to
take Professor Tyndall on the Matterhorn in 1861. “He was dead against any
attempt on the mountain,” says Tyndall. He was now eager to set out.
Professor Tyndall has not explained in what way this revolution came about
in his guide. I was equally astonished at the faithlessness of Carrel, and
attributed it to pique at our having presumed to do without him. It was
useless to compete with the Professor and his four men, who were ready to
start in a few hours, so I waited to see what would come of their
attempt.(64)
Everything seemed to favour it, and they set out on a fine morning in high
spirits, leaving me tormented with envy and all uncharitableness. If they
succeeded, they carried off the prize for which I had been so long
struggling; and if they failed, there was no time to make another attempt,
for I was due in a few days more in London. When this came home clearly to
me, I resolved to leave Breil at once; but, when packing up, found that
some necessaries had been left behind in the tent. So I went off about
midday to recover them; caught the army of the Professor before it reached
the Col, as they were going very slowly; left them there (stopping to take
food), and went on to the tent. I was near to it when all at once I heard
a noise aloft, and, on looking up, perceived a stone of at least a foot
cube flying straight at my head. I ducked, and scrambled under the lee
side of a friendly rock, while the stone went by with a loud buzz. It was
the advanced guard of a perfect storm of stones, which descended with
infernal clatter down the very edge of the ridge, leaving a trail of dust
behind, with a strong smell of sulphur, that told who had sent them. The
men below were on the look-out, but the stones did not come near them, and
breaking away on one side went down to the Glacier du Lion.(65)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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