Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
My knapsack was packed, and I had taken a parting glass of wine with
Favre, who was jubilant at the success which was to make the fortune of
his inn; but I could not bring myself to leave until the result was heard,
and lingered about, as a foolish lover hovers round the object of his
affections, even after he has been contemptuously rejected. The sun had
set before the men were descried coming over the pastures. There was no
spring in their steps—they, too, were defeated. The Carrels hid their
heads, and the others said, as men will do when they have been beaten,
that the mountain was horrible, impossible, and so forth. Professor
Tyndall told me they had arrived _within a stone’s throw of the summit_,
and admonished me to have nothing more to do with the mountain. I
understood him to say that he should not try again, and ran down to the
village of Val Tournanche, almost inclined to believe that the mountain
was inaccessible; leaving the tent, ropes, and other matters in the hands
of Favre, to be placed at the disposal of any person who wished to ascend
it, more, I am afraid, out of irony than from generosity. There may have
been those who believed that the Matterhorn could be ascended, but,
anyhow, their faith did not bring forth works. No one tried again in 1862.
Business took me into Dauphiné before returning to London, and a week
after Tyndall’s defeat I lay one night, after a sultry day, half-asleep,
tossing about in one of the abominations which serve for beds in the inn
kept by the Deputy-Mayor of La Ville de Val Louise; looking at a strange
ruddiness on the ceiling, which I thought might be some effect of
electricity produced by the irritation of the myriads of fleas; when the
great bell of the church, close at hand, pealed out with loud and hurried
clangour. I jumped up, for the voices and movements of the people in the
house made me think of fire. It _was_ fire; and I saw from my window, on
the other side of the river, great forked flames shooting high into the
sky, black dots with long shadows hurrying towards the place, and the
crests of the ridges catching the light and standing out like spectres.
All the world was in motion, for the neighbouring villages—now
aroused—rang out the alarm. I pulled on my shirt, and tore over the
bridge. Three large chalets were on fire, and were surrounded by a mass of
people, who were bringing all their pots and pans, and anything that would
hold water. They formed themselves into several chains, each two deep,
leading towards the nearest stream, and passed the water up one side, and
the empty utensils down the other. My old friend the mayor was there, in
full force, striking the ground with his stick, and vociferating, “Work!
work!” but the men, with much presence of mind, chiefly ranged themselves
on the sides of the empty buckets, and left the real work to their better
halves. Their efforts were useless, and the chalets burnt themselves out.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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