Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
I was once more _en route_ for the Matterhorn, for I had heard in the
spring of 1863 the cause of the failure of Professor Tyndall, and learnt
that the case was not so hopeless as it appeared to be at one time. I
found that he arrived as far only as the northern end of “the shoulder.”
The point at which he says,(66) they “sat down with broken hopes, the
summit within a stone’s throw of us, but still defying us,” was not the
notch or cleft at D (which is literally within a stone’s throw of the
summit), but another and more formidable cleft that intervenes between the
northern end of “the shoulder” and the commencement of the final peak. It
is marked E on the outline which faces p. 44. Carrel and all the men who
had been with me knew of the existence of this cleft, and of the pinnacle
which rose between it and the final peak;(67) and we had frequently talked
about the best manner of passing the place. On this we disagreed, but we
were both of opinion that when we got to “the shoulder,” it would be
necessary to bear down gradually to the right or to the left, to avoid
coming to the top of the notch. Tyndall’s party, after arriving at “the
shoulder,” was led by his guides along the crest of the ridge, and,
consequently, when they got to its northern end, they came to the top of
the notch, instead of the bottom—to the dismay of all but the Carrels. Dr.
Tyndall’s words are, “The ridge was here split by a deep cleft which
separated it from the final precipice, and the case became more hopeless
as we came more near.” The Professor adds, “The mountain is 14,800 feet
high, and 14,600 feet had been accomplished.” He greatly deceived himself;
by the barometric measurements of Signor Giordano the notch is no less
than 800 feet below the summit. The guide Walter (Dr. Tyndall says) said
it was impossible to proceed, and the Carrels, appealed to for their
opinion (this is their own account), gave as an answer, “We are porters;
ask your guides.” Bennen, thus left to himself, “was finally forced to
accept defeat.” Tyndall had nevertheless accomplished an advance of about
400 feet over one of the most difficult parts of the mountain.
There are material discrepancies between the published narratives of
Professor Tyndall(68) and the verbal accounts of the Carrels. The former
says the men had to be “urged on,” that “they pronounced flatly against
the final precipice,” “they yielded so utterly,” and that Bennen said, in
answer to a final appeal made to him, “‘What could I do, sir? not one of
them would accompany me.’ It was the accurate truth.” Jean-Antoine Carrel
says that when Professor Tyndall gave the order to turn _he_ would have
advanced to examine the route, as he did not think that farther progress
was impossible, but he was stopped by the Professor, and was naturally
obliged to follow the others.(69) These disagreements may well be left to
be settled by those who are concerned. Tyndall, Walter, and Bennen, now
disappear from this history.(70)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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