Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
More snow fell during the night, and our attempt on the Matterhorn was
postponed indefinitely. As there was nothing to be done at Breil, I
determined to make the tour of the mountain, and commenced by inventing a
pass from Breil to Zermatt,(73) in place of the hackneyed Théodule. Any
one who looks at the map will see that the latter pass makes a
considerable détour to the east, and, apparently, goes out of the way. I
thought that it was possible to strike out a shorter route, both in
distance and in time, and we set out on the 3rd of August, to carry out
the idea. We followed the Théodule path for some time, but quitted it when
it bore away to the east, and kept straight on until we struck the moraine
of the Mont Cervin glacier. Our track still continued in a straight line
up the centre of the glacier to the foot of a tooth of rock, which juts
prominently out of the ridge (Furggengrat) connecting the Matterhorn with
the Théodulehorn. The head of the glacier was connected with this little
peak by a steep bank of snow; but we were able to go straight up, and
struck the Col at its lowest point, a little to the right (that is to say,
to the east) of the above-mentioned peak. On the north there was a
snow-slope corresponding to that on the other side. Half-an-hour took us
to its base. We then bore away over the nearly level plateau of the
Furggengletscher, making a straight track to the Hörnli, from whence we
descended to Zermatt by one of the well-known paths. This pass has been
dubbed the Breuiljoch by the Swiss surveyors. It is a few feet higher than
the Théodule, and it may be recommended to those who are familiar with
that pass, as it gives equally fine views, and is accessible at all times.
But it will never be frequented like the Théodule, as the snow-slope at
its summit, at certain times, will require the use of the axe. It took us
six hours and a quarter to go from one place to the other, which was an
hour longer than we would have occupied by the Théodule, although the
distance in miles is less.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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